one of them apears to be white,3 inches long how to care for them
Answers:
You don't have to care for them. They live outside, in the plants, in the walls, everywhere. For every gecko you see, there are hundreds you don't see. They come out at night, and eat moths, beetles, spiders, and other insects that also come out at night. I think they'll be just fine, that's their habitat.
I would leave them there they seem to be living fineif you move them they might die
Do NOTHING. They are fully capable of caring for themselves.
leave them alone! Let them be the creatures they are, they survive just fine without anyone trying to turn them into domestic pets. Just because they are around your front door doesn't mean they want to move in. Leave them alone.
Enjoy them where they are. They are wonderful creatures and you are blessed to have them around your home. One of Natures defenses for too many insects. They will eat as they please and you just need not to step on them. And you will have less inscet intrusions than your neighbor!
White one may be an albino. Also, I don't know if they change colors or not, but I'd see some white ones where I worked, on the white walls, so not sure if they were adapting to that color(?).
I agree, just leave them, they eat the bugs.
Lucky you! Traditionally it is said to be good luck to have geckos handing around your house. Maybe because they eat lots of bugs. I agree with what everyone else has said about leaving them alone. If you have so many then there must be enough food to keep them hanging around. Just don't use bug spray! It will kill more than just the bugs. Happy gecko watching!
Where do you live, they are most likely Anoles or House Geckos. Are you planning on bringing them in and housing them as pets? If so they are very easy to care for and a lot of fun to watch too. If you do want to house them let me know and I can let you know what you will need to house and feed them.
leave them they will look after themselves they eat flies
leave it alone and they will grow even bigger and maybe chill there longer instead of u scaring them off
Sunday, August 2, 2009
I have a year old read ear slider female I believe. I got a month ago a hatchling. I would like to put them?
both in a 50 gallon tank. The year old is currently there. I am curious if they will get along or not? They are both female I think.
Answers:
Should not be a problem in a good sized tank.
http://www.redearslider.com
turtles are normally pretty good, after all they get put into tanks at the pet store like 10 at a time. But go ahead and try it. Just keep an eye on them and make sure no one is getting picked on.
and make sure they both get food!! The older one may take all the food!
try it but keep an eye on the little one
Red Eared Sliders are pretty disagreeable turtles and tend to bite at each other. I wouldn't advise putting two together, or putting them with anything else for that matter.
However, I have seen it done, so maybe you can try it and keep a watchful eye over them for a while to make sure no fighting occurs.
Just keep an eye on them. I wouldn't put them together if there is a HUGE size difference (competition for food, accidental injury), if they're reasonably comparably sized, they should be fine.
You probably already know, turtles require a constant water temperature for growth and good health. You should check to verify, I believe water turtles require 82 to 85 degrees. A good turtle proof submersible heater should do the trick! And a serious water filter system. Turtles can be a bit dirty (I feed mine separate from their living quarters for just that reason)!
Babies need a diet high in protein. Lots of fish! When they mature you can mix their diet with some veggies!
Best of luck!
they should get along.
Answers:
Should not be a problem in a good sized tank.
http://www.redearslider.com
turtles are normally pretty good, after all they get put into tanks at the pet store like 10 at a time. But go ahead and try it. Just keep an eye on them and make sure no one is getting picked on.
and make sure they both get food!! The older one may take all the food!
try it but keep an eye on the little one
Red Eared Sliders are pretty disagreeable turtles and tend to bite at each other. I wouldn't advise putting two together, or putting them with anything else for that matter.
However, I have seen it done, so maybe you can try it and keep a watchful eye over them for a while to make sure no fighting occurs.
Just keep an eye on them. I wouldn't put them together if there is a HUGE size difference (competition for food, accidental injury), if they're reasonably comparably sized, they should be fine.
You probably already know, turtles require a constant water temperature for growth and good health. You should check to verify, I believe water turtles require 82 to 85 degrees. A good turtle proof submersible heater should do the trick! And a serious water filter system. Turtles can be a bit dirty (I feed mine separate from their living quarters for just that reason)!
Babies need a diet high in protein. Lots of fish! When they mature you can mix their diet with some veggies!
Best of luck!
they should get along.
I have a water turtle and recently noticed that his nails have gotten really long. Should they be clipped?
Answers:
a.) If you don't know anything about their care, he would have been better off in the wild- he would have found a pond nearby and been perfectly happy. They migrate pond to pond all the time.
b.) Long nails in sliders and cooters means it is a male. DO NOT clip them!
c.) Learn about the care of these fun pets at sites like http://www.austinsturtlepage.com. For example- the tank should be nice and big and heated. Keeping them in too small of a cage is not doing them any favors.
Please understand- I applaud your desire to rescue this poor animal, but by taking it in, you have made an agreement to try to do right by it- not just 'OK'. Sadly, turtles are tricky animals to care for and take a lot more work than most people really want to give them.
No
. water turtle should be in water . I hope you are not keeping under your bed . give him lots of greens to eat . don't let him in dry atmosphere .
No. Long nails on a turtle mean it is a male. It is completely natural. The nails are how they "woo" the females for mating.
its a boy turtle.they have long nails because when they mate those nails are for gripping the females shell.but i would try to call a local reptile vet or a herpetologist GOOD LUCK :)
I'm not an expert on turtles but I would clip them if it's obviously a health or safety risk. Also, I use to put a kinda steep rock in my tank for my turtles to get up on when they wanted to sun themselves, causing them to wear down they're nails by themselves when climbing up on the rock. just an idea? hope this helped you :) I just finished reading other answers and everyone is saying the same thing so I would listen to them which goes back to what I said.I'm not an expert and it shows!!LOL
Courtney is right. It is one of the identifying features to tell it is a male and they do use them in mating. This is a very interesting spectacle to see. The male looks like he is slapping the female in the face really fast. Leaving the nails long is fine. Another identifying feature is in the tail males have a longer tail. I have worked with animals for years actually reptiles and fish are my specialty.
u dont need to cut there nails this is how they take care of them selves and to eat their foods like when i would give mine smelts or goldfish they use their nales to tear em apart and eat em. here is a link to help ya out http://www.redearslider.com/ thats if wat you found is red ear slider do you even know wat kinda turtle u found?
I have a water dragon with a good size lump forming on his top jaw does anyone know what before going to vet?
Answers:
Reptiles can get mouth rot.
GO TO THE VET!
Could be an abcess- An infection under the skin that fills the area with pus. They are pretty common and treatable.
Could be Metabolic Bone Disease. Are you feeding him correctly and giving him enough heat and UV light? Treatable, but can be difficult.
A vet will tell you more, Good Luck.
go to the vet it could be an infection
You need to take it to the vet for the correct answer, it coulb be an abcess or MBD (metabollic bone disease). The best thing for your water dragon is to be diagnosed by a reptile vet. Good luck and take care of that baby!
i have a turtle and i would like to know what kind it is?
it has one red stripe down each side of its neck and yellow stripes under his neck.
Answers:
Red-eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans)
http://redearslider.com/
http://redearslider.com/images/img_res-3.
how big is it?
brazilian turtle mostly are those small one and you can buy those from chinatown
its a painted turtle, a.k.a green turtle common to north america if you don't believe me check google, thats right GOOGLE, cause yahoo sux, images and search "painted turtle"
wow.three different answers. I suggest asking a vet.
red eared slider turtle
more than likely it is a red ear slider.
i was just at the pet co yesterday with my turtle i got a east African side neck.. beautiful turtle.. anyway he goes to the pet store with me and i was looking at the red ear sliders.. like them also but i don't want something that is going to have to be in a tank all the time.. but that's probably what you got.
Red-ear slider
For more about this species, try http://www.redearslider.com
Answers:
Red-eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans)
http://redearslider.com/
http://redearslider.com/images/img_res-3.
how big is it?
brazilian turtle mostly are those small one and you can buy those from chinatown
its a painted turtle, a.k.a green turtle common to north america if you don't believe me check google, thats right GOOGLE, cause yahoo sux, images and search "painted turtle"
wow.three different answers. I suggest asking a vet.
red eared slider turtle
more than likely it is a red ear slider.
i was just at the pet co yesterday with my turtle i got a east African side neck.. beautiful turtle.. anyway he goes to the pet store with me and i was looking at the red ear sliders.. like them also but i don't want something that is going to have to be in a tank all the time.. but that's probably what you got.
Red-ear slider
For more about this species, try http://www.redearslider.com
I have a solomoh island skink. This time of year, she gets mites. I need sugestions!?
I have bathed her frequently during the week. Bleach her aquarium. I have bought the De Flea reptile relief and the discs for bird mites. She is on news paper. No more bark or sand. I had friend today tell me to use 7 dust. He swears by it. I am scrared to death. She is my pride and joy. I need to get rid of the mites and save my Lola. I am open to suggestions. Please help.
Answers:
I spoke with the director of our local wildlife center who has raised skinks for many years as pets. She advised that it is not safe to use 7 dust on a skink. 7 dust is very strong and we only use it for our wild pelicans that come in to the center either sick or injured. Those are huge birds and we only use a very small pinch of 7 dust on our pelicans to get rid of mites. If you use 7 dust on your skink it could possibly kill it.
If you can find anyone who has Ivermectin, you can use one and I mean only one little drop of it. Place the drop in the center of the skinks back. Ivermection is also strong and this is why only one drop is to be used. This has worked for her skinks.
You can also go to a pet store or pet smart and buy a spray specifically designed for reptiles to get rid of mites. Flea spray will not get rid of mites on skinks.Skinks do not get fleas.
If either of these two suggestions do not work, then you will need to bring your skink to the vet for further medicine to get rid of the mites. I know that the ivermectin will work as it has worked on her skinks with no problems when properly used. If none of your friends have any ivermectin, you can purchase this at any local feed store for farm animals.
Hope this helps :-)
if you tried all that stuff, try a vet. not 7 dust, it may kill her. some shops sell mite relief.
What do you mean "this time of year"? Mites aren't like dry skin.thy don't just "happen". They come from somewhere. Have you taken her to the vet? Are you sure they are reptile mites and not wood mites from the substrate you're using? I have had this happen with bark before. Take her to the vet to make sure, then if it is reptile mites, he or she can give you the proper medication (proper dose of ivermectin and proper administration of it) and suggestions for preventing reinfestation. If you are using bleach for the aquarium, make sure you rinse it very thoroughly and then, instead of putting your usual substrate in it, just use plain white paper towels (not printed ones) until the mites are gone completely and then consider using astroturf, which is cheap, aesthetically pleasing to the eye, and they seem to like it. Good luck!!
Hi there;
I have a solution that does not involve the use of harsh or potentially harmful chemicals. Use olive oil. While you are off to a good start with stripping down your habitat, you are not following through as thorough as you may think. You must stop the re-infestation by applying olive oil (which is harmless) to your pet as well as applying the oil to the outside surfaces in and around the habitat. Please wash your hands before touching ANYTHING including your skinks food. Inspect all substances (the use of a white sheet of paper or paper towel will do) for parasites. The beauty of using olive oil is not only is it harmless but can reapplied as needed.
Mites, as well as any blood sucking parasite breath through their bodies and will avoid anything that coats their outsides. By applying the oil the parasite can not breath and dies off. Those that have not found a living host (in this case your skink) will avoid surfaces which have been treated.
Good luck :)
take your skink to the vet to be treated,clean your skinks bedding,clean the tank with bleach and water,best yet change bedding completely.to make sure your new bedding is clean of any mites put it in the microwave to heat it to over 120 deg to kill any unwanted pest
Answers:
I spoke with the director of our local wildlife center who has raised skinks for many years as pets. She advised that it is not safe to use 7 dust on a skink. 7 dust is very strong and we only use it for our wild pelicans that come in to the center either sick or injured. Those are huge birds and we only use a very small pinch of 7 dust on our pelicans to get rid of mites. If you use 7 dust on your skink it could possibly kill it.
If you can find anyone who has Ivermectin, you can use one and I mean only one little drop of it. Place the drop in the center of the skinks back. Ivermection is also strong and this is why only one drop is to be used. This has worked for her skinks.
You can also go to a pet store or pet smart and buy a spray specifically designed for reptiles to get rid of mites. Flea spray will not get rid of mites on skinks.Skinks do not get fleas.
If either of these two suggestions do not work, then you will need to bring your skink to the vet for further medicine to get rid of the mites. I know that the ivermectin will work as it has worked on her skinks with no problems when properly used. If none of your friends have any ivermectin, you can purchase this at any local feed store for farm animals.
Hope this helps :-)
if you tried all that stuff, try a vet. not 7 dust, it may kill her. some shops sell mite relief.
What do you mean "this time of year"? Mites aren't like dry skin.thy don't just "happen". They come from somewhere. Have you taken her to the vet? Are you sure they are reptile mites and not wood mites from the substrate you're using? I have had this happen with bark before. Take her to the vet to make sure, then if it is reptile mites, he or she can give you the proper medication (proper dose of ivermectin and proper administration of it) and suggestions for preventing reinfestation. If you are using bleach for the aquarium, make sure you rinse it very thoroughly and then, instead of putting your usual substrate in it, just use plain white paper towels (not printed ones) until the mites are gone completely and then consider using astroturf, which is cheap, aesthetically pleasing to the eye, and they seem to like it. Good luck!!
Hi there;
I have a solution that does not involve the use of harsh or potentially harmful chemicals. Use olive oil. While you are off to a good start with stripping down your habitat, you are not following through as thorough as you may think. You must stop the re-infestation by applying olive oil (which is harmless) to your pet as well as applying the oil to the outside surfaces in and around the habitat. Please wash your hands before touching ANYTHING including your skinks food. Inspect all substances (the use of a white sheet of paper or paper towel will do) for parasites. The beauty of using olive oil is not only is it harmless but can reapplied as needed.
Mites, as well as any blood sucking parasite breath through their bodies and will avoid anything that coats their outsides. By applying the oil the parasite can not breath and dies off. Those that have not found a living host (in this case your skink) will avoid surfaces which have been treated.
Good luck :)
take your skink to the vet to be treated,clean your skinks bedding,clean the tank with bleach and water,best yet change bedding completely.to make sure your new bedding is clean of any mites put it in the microwave to heat it to over 120 deg to kill any unwanted pest
I have a snake by my house. I wanted to know what kind it was?
The snake in my yard is brown and was about 3 1/2 feet long.
Answers:
Hi Matt,
It might help if you repost your question with the State and city in which you live. Also, information as to whether or not the snake that you have seen is patterned.(spots, stripes, speckles, solid colored, etc.)
Without knowing this information it is nearly impossible for anyone to tell you what kind of snake that you saw. There are many different kind of snakes, but they don't all live in the same places. More information is vital to distinguish whether this is an indigenous specie that lives naturally in your vicinity, or, whether this was one of your neighbors escaped pets. real important: especially if your hometown is also hometown to venoumous snakes.
There are great reference books out there that you can look through. You can also contact your local State Dept. of Fish %26 Game/Wildlife. They can let you know what native species live in your area, this will narrow the field of search. Good Luck.
brown? how fat is it. Like a man's bicep or a forearm? Or is it real thin like a broom stick?
* Sings.
"THATS IT. I am sick of these motherfuc*king snakes in my motherfuc*king yard."
Times are strange
got a free upgrade for snakes in my yard
fu*ck um I don't care..
la la la laaaaa.
if you go to snakesandfrogs.com you will find several different photos of brown snakes along with descriptions of them and what they eat and if they are or are not poisonous. hope this helps u with ur snake!
It depends on where you live, what kind of habitat you live near (swamp, woods, desert, mountain, beach, etc.), what kind of markings the snake had, did it move fast or slow, how big it was, and several other factors. If it was just brown there are hundreds of species it could be. Please give more details.
I NEED A PICTURE
syberian ice snake.worlds most dealiest non posionous snake.. crawls up your butt and freezes you to death..stay away and call a snake handler
probably jsut your regular garden snake. But it depends on where you live
If its brown and you live near water it could be a copper head. Dont mess with it
It is not your girl friend is it ?
Answers:
Hi Matt,
It might help if you repost your question with the State and city in which you live. Also, information as to whether or not the snake that you have seen is patterned.(spots, stripes, speckles, solid colored, etc.)
Without knowing this information it is nearly impossible for anyone to tell you what kind of snake that you saw. There are many different kind of snakes, but they don't all live in the same places. More information is vital to distinguish whether this is an indigenous specie that lives naturally in your vicinity, or, whether this was one of your neighbors escaped pets. real important: especially if your hometown is also hometown to venoumous snakes.
There are great reference books out there that you can look through. You can also contact your local State Dept. of Fish %26 Game/Wildlife. They can let you know what native species live in your area, this will narrow the field of search. Good Luck.
brown? how fat is it. Like a man's bicep or a forearm? Or is it real thin like a broom stick?
* Sings.
"THATS IT. I am sick of these motherfuc*king snakes in my motherfuc*king yard."
Times are strange
got a free upgrade for snakes in my yard
fu*ck um I don't care..
la la la laaaaa.
if you go to snakesandfrogs.com you will find several different photos of brown snakes along with descriptions of them and what they eat and if they are or are not poisonous. hope this helps u with ur snake!
It depends on where you live, what kind of habitat you live near (swamp, woods, desert, mountain, beach, etc.), what kind of markings the snake had, did it move fast or slow, how big it was, and several other factors. If it was just brown there are hundreds of species it could be. Please give more details.
I NEED A PICTURE
syberian ice snake.worlds most dealiest non posionous snake.. crawls up your butt and freezes you to death..stay away and call a snake handler
probably jsut your regular garden snake. But it depends on where you live
If its brown and you live near water it could be a copper head. Dont mess with it
It is not your girl friend is it ?
I have a small corn snake (about 3ft long) how long can I go in between feedings?
Answers:
i would say that a medium sized mouse, or small rat would last him about a week or two at most.
and as for the other two posters..WTF y'all? get a d@mn life.
I used to work at a pet store and we handled snakes and stuff. Usually a snake of that size could go 2-3 weeks on one 250gram mouse. Just keep him/her in a cozy place while digesting the mouse. Never roughly handle a snake thats just eaten. You cant burp snakes that way.
corn snakes that long could eat a large mouse or 2 or a good size rat. The rat will last longer in the snake's digestive track. Rats are meatier and give more sustenance. It can last anywhere from 1.5 weeks to 3 weeks. Corn snakes have a very good appetite and seem to eat about as much as you offer them. I have a snow corn snake and love it. That is what I feed it. They can be overfed and will become obese so that needs to be watched also. Good luck..
Once every two weeks depending on the size of the meal. a rat would certainly last the snake two weeks unless his enlcosure is too warm. This would cause him to digest the food much quicker.
i find mine of the same size has gone up to 3 months with out any ill effect will eat when hungry normally once a week
A medium rat about once every two weeks. Feeding smaller food more frequently is bad for their digestive system.
I have a small 4 inch red eared sllider and I need a light for it anyone know what kind of light please help?
anyone who knows what kind of light it needs please help
I have had him for abought a year and I normally let it stay outside in a BIG container with water in it and he was fine but now I need a light for it because the water is getting cold and I don't want him to hibernate please help!! (: )
Answers:
Turtles depend on full-spectrum lighting, which is an artificial illumination that will sustain their day/night cycle and help them to process the nutrients of the food you provide. A group of vitamines (specially D3) are absorved into the turtle's body through direct exposure to this special light. This absorption encourages proper bone formation and shell health.
Full-spectrum lights
Your local pet shop should have a variety of full-spectrum lights specially designed for reptiles. Most turtle keepers recommend Reptisun 5.0 or Vitalights. Remember to add a basking area to your aquarium so that the turtle can get out of the water and benefit better from your light.
Black lights
These lights emit a very dark purple beam and you have probably seen them being used in plants. Nevertheless, these lights are NOT Recommended for turtles since tests show that turtles benefit less from these types of lights and it will dammage the turtle's vision due to the high intensity of the beam. There have been cases reported of turtles that have been totally blinded by these lights in a short period of time.
Photoperiod
This is simply the duration of the period in which the light stays on and off. If you wish to hibertate your turtles you will want to mimic the natural seasons. Example: provide more light in the summer since this is the season in which the sun lights for longer hours.
The pet stores have a Bio-Light that you could use. They also carry a Heated Stone for reptiles. I've used both, with success.
Hope this helps.
Smartycat
I'm not sure where to begin.
- Where are you? What is your winter like? Will a bulb by itself be enough to keep the turtle healthy over winter?
- Keeping it outside in a 'big container'? How big, what kind? (Pond, plastic tub?)
We combat the urge for hibernation by boosting temps to a summery 80-85, and providing a summery daylight cycle of about 1/2 day and 1/2 night, rather than the shortening days we are getting.
It is tough to combat hibernation in an outdoor pen. You may want to rethink you idea.
Other than that, I just don't know enough about your situation to offer better advice but I can suggest a couple good websites:
I have had him for abought a year and I normally let it stay outside in a BIG container with water in it and he was fine but now I need a light for it because the water is getting cold and I don't want him to hibernate please help!! (: )
Answers:
Turtles depend on full-spectrum lighting, which is an artificial illumination that will sustain their day/night cycle and help them to process the nutrients of the food you provide. A group of vitamines (specially D3) are absorved into the turtle's body through direct exposure to this special light. This absorption encourages proper bone formation and shell health.
Full-spectrum lights
Your local pet shop should have a variety of full-spectrum lights specially designed for reptiles. Most turtle keepers recommend Reptisun 5.0 or Vitalights. Remember to add a basking area to your aquarium so that the turtle can get out of the water and benefit better from your light.
Black lights
These lights emit a very dark purple beam and you have probably seen them being used in plants. Nevertheless, these lights are NOT Recommended for turtles since tests show that turtles benefit less from these types of lights and it will dammage the turtle's vision due to the high intensity of the beam. There have been cases reported of turtles that have been totally blinded by these lights in a short period of time.
Photoperiod
This is simply the duration of the period in which the light stays on and off. If you wish to hibertate your turtles you will want to mimic the natural seasons. Example: provide more light in the summer since this is the season in which the sun lights for longer hours.
The pet stores have a Bio-Light that you could use. They also carry a Heated Stone for reptiles. I've used both, with success.
Hope this helps.
Smartycat
I'm not sure where to begin.
- Where are you? What is your winter like? Will a bulb by itself be enough to keep the turtle healthy over winter?
- Keeping it outside in a 'big container'? How big, what kind? (Pond, plastic tub?)
We combat the urge for hibernation by boosting temps to a summery 80-85, and providing a summery daylight cycle of about 1/2 day and 1/2 night, rather than the shortening days we are getting.
It is tough to combat hibernation in an outdoor pen. You may want to rethink you idea.
Other than that, I just don't know enough about your situation to offer better advice but I can suggest a couple good websites:
I have a savanna monitor that is not eating. Everything in his 75 gal tank is right, we have offered everthng.
My savanna monitor is not eating. I got him a week and a half ago. We have tried pinkies, super worms, egg, hot dog, turkey dog food, crickets. He as only eaten a couple bites of egg and a piece of hotdog. He is very skinny and we have been soaking him in water, putting him in his basking area and now feeding him Herpcare -electrolyte and appetite stimulant. He goes in the water and stays there most of the time or lays near it. The Herpcare (although only given once so far) does not seem to be working. His tank is 75 gal, he is 17 inches long. One side of his tank is at about 85 and the other is about 110. He has a hiding place in the middle of his hank and a heat light and rock on the hot side of his tank and water on the warm side. Is there any other options before taking him to the vet. Has anyone had this problem with theirs and if so what got them to eat. I have read online everything and nothings working.
Answers:
I've had Savannah's before mine refused to eat as well as soon as I upgraded his enclosure I would personally suggest covering his tank with a towel so you won't bother him with your presence also some people are not aware of the fact that television and other such things can really stress your reptile out. if he hasn't eaten in more then a week though take him to the vet
You can, very careully, force feed him ground food with a dropper. Be sure it is semi-wet, and be oh so gentle. I use a lot of crickets, but you have to feed them something nutritious before (loading them) so they are nutritious for the lizard.
I had a savanah monitor a few years back and he stopped eating due to the change. Try putting some crickets into his tank and leave them there. Count them so that you'll know how many he eats. Also Monitors seem to like there foor alive so don't feed thawed or dead mice and pinkies. If you think he looks super bad thern you should have the vet look at him. Good Luck. and enjoy your monitor.
Try to put his food in the tank and live him alone they don't like to be watch when they eat the are like snakes but with legs.. If that don't work bring him to the vet or ask the guy where you bought him from. It might be he is in a new area..
hmmm. You might want to get him dewormed. If he's skinny and lethargic it sounds like he's sick, and internal parasites are a common problem. You can get a fecal sample done just to be sure, but the most common dewormer for reptiles (fenbendazole- panacur) is mild enough that some people dose them as a preventative measure, so it might not be a bad idea.
its more then likely that he is a fresh import and is loaded with all sorts of parasites. It would be best to take him to a vet and have him treated and hopefully he will recover. unfotianitly many imports dont make it.
Answers:
I've had Savannah's before mine refused to eat as well as soon as I upgraded his enclosure I would personally suggest covering his tank with a towel so you won't bother him with your presence also some people are not aware of the fact that television and other such things can really stress your reptile out. if he hasn't eaten in more then a week though take him to the vet
You can, very careully, force feed him ground food with a dropper. Be sure it is semi-wet, and be oh so gentle. I use a lot of crickets, but you have to feed them something nutritious before (loading them) so they are nutritious for the lizard.
I had a savanah monitor a few years back and he stopped eating due to the change. Try putting some crickets into his tank and leave them there. Count them so that you'll know how many he eats. Also Monitors seem to like there foor alive so don't feed thawed or dead mice and pinkies. If you think he looks super bad thern you should have the vet look at him. Good Luck. and enjoy your monitor.
Try to put his food in the tank and live him alone they don't like to be watch when they eat the are like snakes but with legs.. If that don't work bring him to the vet or ask the guy where you bought him from. It might be he is in a new area..
hmmm. You might want to get him dewormed. If he's skinny and lethargic it sounds like he's sick, and internal parasites are a common problem. You can get a fecal sample done just to be sure, but the most common dewormer for reptiles (fenbendazole- panacur) is mild enough that some people dose them as a preventative measure, so it might not be a bad idea.
its more then likely that he is a fresh import and is loaded with all sorts of parasites. It would be best to take him to a vet and have him treated and hopefully he will recover. unfotianitly many imports dont make it.
I have a russian tortoise, is sand ok to line the bottom of her cage with? Or should I use something else.?
Answers:
Sand is OK as long as you can keep it clean- but it is pretty hard to clean the stuff. It is also pretty heavy adn does not offer great footing in most cases.
Most substrates have pros and cons, and a lot of it depends on the exact housing situation you are using.
The site http://www.russiantortoise.org says:
"Once again there are many choices. The ideal is considered to be a 50/50 mix of sand and garden loam. Since garden loam is hard to find here, I substitute Bed-A-Beast or other brand of coconut coir. For me this works well.
"Others have used peat moss..but it tends to be too dusty. Keep in mind that the substrate doesn't need to be bone dry. In the wild they live in very arid conditions. But their burrows have up to 70% humidity!
"Other poor choices are: newspaper (easy to clean); rabbit pellets (tend to dehydrate the tort and are about the worst of the substrates). Also can get moldy fast if wet.); Care Fresh bedding (a recycled newspaper product in a pellet form) Alfalfa hay is too high in protein (torts love to nibble on it)."
I like using the sand/loam mix as well, personally- and I use bagged loam from the garden center. I scoop when I need to and about every few months, I just toss the entire batch into the garden and mix up some new stuff.
In my big pen, I use stone flooring tiles for the basking areas, a washable indoor/outdoor carpeting for some spaces (with several spares so I can have one in the wash, 1 ready to go, and 1 in the pen), and recessed pans of sand/loam for about half of the place. Each pan has several drain holes, so I often dampen the mix to help it pack a little, and offer another micro-climate in the tank.
(But, then again, my big pen is 4'x8', so I have lots of space to play with!)
we use ground walnut shells, the sell them in bags at petsmart
you should put reptile-bark (have a Russian tortoise) go on to http://petsmart.com good luck e-mail me with any questions :)
I wouldn't use sand, it could cause small scratches on her plastron and feet, which could become infected. Sand can also cause impactions if it is eaten. I have a Russian tortoise too, and I use cypress mulch in her cage. Hope this can help.
No, sand can be ingested and cause impaction.
As russians are burrowing species, a loose soil and sand mix (top soil and play sand mixed 50/50) is best, so that they can dig and burrow.
Another great subsrate would be 'auboise hemp' or 'hemcore' if you go to your local horse feed supplier they should have some :)
Its very easy to clean and great to dig in!
a good place for advice on hosuing and substrates is:
www.tortoise-world.com
also, www.tortoisetrust.org and www.groups.yahoo.com/group/tor.
no, don't use sand as your substrate, if your turtle should eat some of it it could cause problems with their stomach and intestines
I have a rosie tail boa,that won't eat, what can I do?
Answers:
Make sure your boa is warm enough- check your enviornment against the recommended temps for rosie's.
Also, warm (not hot) water soaks will stimulate defecation, which in turn stimulates hunger.
Get brown rather than white hoppers/mice- some snakes will not eat white mice.
If your snake is used to fresh killed, offer them that way, if your snake is used to frozen thawed, keep to that.
Scenting thawed prey or killed prey with fresh skin from alive mouse works too sometimes.
Check to see if your snake is getting ready to shed, sometimes they will not ea. Look at her eye caps- are they blueish? That can signal a coming shed.
If all else fails, and you have the right temp and humidity for her, call your reptile vet. Snakes can be sick a long time, but once they show signs of illness, they may be much sicker than you think.
You can try several different methods, such as cutting the pinkie so that the snake can smell blood, or anole-scenting it. Good luck trying to find someone's anole to rub on your pinkie. XD Look it up on the internet; they're are probably lots more ways to get a non-feeder to eat.
Well how long has it been that your boa isn't eating? I mean, is it a week? A month? There are periods of time where snakes go into a not interested in eating phase and I personally have found that the less I worry about it, the better off they are! When they are shedding or going into shed, some do not eat well or for awhile. Others are picky eaters, so if your boa doesn't have any signs of a cold or otherwise of sickness, I wouldn't worry about it! I was told by a well-known reptile breeder that snakes can go months so offer the food on your schedule(usually once a week at least right?)and then see what happens.
try feeding it your hand!
My snake acted healthy but would refuse to eat. unfortunately the other one got fat cause I would give him the rat to not waste it. He went for 4 months with out eating so I got him a mouse(actually 5 mice) and he sucked em down like spaghetti. Ball pythons are sometimes so picky and I don't know about boas. Might be worth the try to change the food. if you feed frozen you can thaw him out and take it to your nearest pet store have him rubbed with an anole. Sometimes that will work.
Reptiles go through phases. Any change in their environment can't change their eating habits. Be patient, but continue to offer food.
is there a possibility that she may be pergnet?
I have a RES, he is very aggressive, any ideas what I can do to help him be a little nicer?
He has killed a sucker fish, and before this happened, I added a couple of snails to help clean up and he busted their shells and ate them. Everyone tells me they aren't suposed to be aggressive but he even bites me!
Answers:
He isn't aggressive he is a turtle and out in the wild that is how they eat. Don't put more fish in the tank with him or you will just kill them aswell.
In the wild, Red-ear sliders regularly eat fish and snails, as well as other animals. It is only natural that they will do it in a tank as well.
Biting at you is a sheer defense technique. As far as it knows, you are a giant bird of prey trying to pick it up to dash it on the rocks and eat it.
When you pick up a turtle, try to scoop it up so it feels you under its feet. it will still try to get away, but it will feel less threatened that way.
As for sucker fish and snails- try different sizes. Food items that are too big or small are no longer looked upon as food.
In general, aggression has a few underlying causes:
- General stress, like too much noise/vibration, flashing lights, being stared at by giants, being handled, etc.
- Too small of a cage. One reason we suggest at least 10 gallons per inch of turtle is that it gives the turtle a chance to develop a safe hidy hole, and feel like it can evade enemies.
- Wrong diet, temps, or lighting. Hungry turtles are aggressive turtles. Turtles that are too warm are aslo aggressive, as are turtles that cannot escape bright light.
- Injury or illness
Double check the basic cares at sites like http://www.austinsturtlepage.com. or http://www.redearslider.com to see if yours are doing OK.
Finally, some turtles are just plain more aggressive than others.
Oh, by the way- whoever told you RES are not aggressive was mistaken. They are considered a moderately aggressive species when healthy. Placid RES are usually not well cared for.
Answers:
He isn't aggressive he is a turtle and out in the wild that is how they eat. Don't put more fish in the tank with him or you will just kill them aswell.
In the wild, Red-ear sliders regularly eat fish and snails, as well as other animals. It is only natural that they will do it in a tank as well.
Biting at you is a sheer defense technique. As far as it knows, you are a giant bird of prey trying to pick it up to dash it on the rocks and eat it.
When you pick up a turtle, try to scoop it up so it feels you under its feet. it will still try to get away, but it will feel less threatened that way.
As for sucker fish and snails- try different sizes. Food items that are too big or small are no longer looked upon as food.
In general, aggression has a few underlying causes:
- General stress, like too much noise/vibration, flashing lights, being stared at by giants, being handled, etc.
- Too small of a cage. One reason we suggest at least 10 gallons per inch of turtle is that it gives the turtle a chance to develop a safe hidy hole, and feel like it can evade enemies.
- Wrong diet, temps, or lighting. Hungry turtles are aggressive turtles. Turtles that are too warm are aslo aggressive, as are turtles that cannot escape bright light.
- Injury or illness
Double check the basic cares at sites like http://www.austinsturtlepage.com. or http://www.redearslider.com to see if yours are doing OK.
Finally, some turtles are just plain more aggressive than others.
Oh, by the way- whoever told you RES are not aggressive was mistaken. They are considered a moderately aggressive species when healthy. Placid RES are usually not well cared for.
i have a red tail boa and she has mites.. what can i use to get rid of them with out harming her..?
Answers:
There is a product called reptile relief, you can spray it on her and it wont harm her. Get rid of ALL her bedding, bleach out the tank and there is a product called provent a mite, don't hose her cage down with it but kinda fog the inside and outside and surrounding areas. Make sure all the fumes are gone from the cage before you put her back in. I'd put her on newspaper for now until you are sure the mites are gone. Sometimes, the 1st treatment doesn't work. Mites are really hard to get rid of. I had to do the same for my Ball Pythons. There is also a really good article on mites on kingsnake.com. Good luck!
I've heard mineral oil works. It smothers the mites and doesn't have any side effects for the snake.
My friend was a snake fanatic and was very picky about using products from pet stores to take care of the problem. So, mineral oil is what he used.
Do not use mineral oil - bad for the snake. one option is to put a Shell No-Pest Strip (use a one-inch square) on top of the cage if it has a screen top. Do not put it in the cage. Another option is to sprinkle chewing tobacco or loose leaf tobacco around the cage. Before doing this, clean the cage thoroughly (use bleach if cage material in non-porous) and replace anything that cannot be sterilized. Repeat this process regularly until mites are gone. The mites are not just a nuisance - they can kill the snake if left untreated.
Go to the web site www.anapsid.org/mites.html#env.
take her off of the bedding that she is on for the time being most of them have been pre treated but some can cause mites. using a mite or lice spray for reps will help , regular bathing will help and veggie oil rub downs
if i was you i would takw it to the vet and get medicine my snake died form them they got under its scales and made it get a bad infection
I have a Red Ear Slider and tank is cloudy.Please help!!?
I've had a RES for about a year now and recently I inherited another from a friend. I isulated the turtle for and week and soaked her in Sulfa Deep. I have now placed her in the tank with my other turltle (they get along fine) but NOW my water is always CLOUDY and turns GREEN by the next morning. I have tried everything short of buying a new filter. PLEASE HELP.
Answers:
Everything really depends on the tank parameters and how often you clean the water. Since I don't know the age of your turtle, I'm assuming you got it when it was a baby. So, the water temp should be around 78 degrees, the basking spot should be about 90 degrees, and you should have a UVB lamp so they can process vitamin D3 and absorb calcium for growth. I don't know how good of a turtle keeper you are but it sounds like your doing ok since they're still alive after a year but you could be doing better. Cloudy water is usually indicative of an uncycled tank - meaning that there is not enough beneficial bacteria available to process the bioload (of waste). If you are doing complete water changes that could be a reason. You only need to change 25% of the water once a week. You should also have a big tank for a couple turtles who are over 1 year - minimum a 55 gallon. As far as green water, do you have a filter system working? Algae builds up if there is too much light and/or water temps too high. Do you have the lights on timers, etc. There is an awesome website for turtle facts and a great forum to help answer all your questions: http://www.turtleforum.com/forum/upload/. and here's the care sheet for a RES: http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/care/ca.
It may be your water, it may be algae if you have your tank near the sun.. try Turtle Clean by BioCare. And add calcium if you don't already. It should come in a small "block" that you add for a bit when you change the water. It helps with their absorbtion of nutrients in their food. Also, I try to exchange some of the old water for new water every so often between cleanings. If that doesn't work, try changing the filter. I have a RES and I love him dearly! The "cloudy" water has happened to me too! Was this new turtle from a store? Or was it living outside when you got him? Just keep an eye out for disease and correct it quickly or you'll lose both of them!
Unfortunatly what you probably need to do is get a lager tank and a larger filter. Sorry to give bad news.
Get some cloud remover. You may also need to get a bigger tank. I also have 2 red eared sliders. I keep them in a kiddie pool with an island in the center, heat lamp hanging which works great. The water rarely gets cloudy. And usually only after a water change.
My RES is still alive mainly because of the great advice I've received from this website: http://www.redearslider.com/forum/index..
Ask your question there and you will get the best advice!
Answers:
Everything really depends on the tank parameters and how often you clean the water. Since I don't know the age of your turtle, I'm assuming you got it when it was a baby. So, the water temp should be around 78 degrees, the basking spot should be about 90 degrees, and you should have a UVB lamp so they can process vitamin D3 and absorb calcium for growth. I don't know how good of a turtle keeper you are but it sounds like your doing ok since they're still alive after a year but you could be doing better. Cloudy water is usually indicative of an uncycled tank - meaning that there is not enough beneficial bacteria available to process the bioload (of waste). If you are doing complete water changes that could be a reason. You only need to change 25% of the water once a week. You should also have a big tank for a couple turtles who are over 1 year - minimum a 55 gallon. As far as green water, do you have a filter system working? Algae builds up if there is too much light and/or water temps too high. Do you have the lights on timers, etc. There is an awesome website for turtle facts and a great forum to help answer all your questions: http://www.turtleforum.com/forum/upload/. and here's the care sheet for a RES: http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/care/ca.
It may be your water, it may be algae if you have your tank near the sun.. try Turtle Clean by BioCare. And add calcium if you don't already. It should come in a small "block" that you add for a bit when you change the water. It helps with their absorbtion of nutrients in their food. Also, I try to exchange some of the old water for new water every so often between cleanings. If that doesn't work, try changing the filter. I have a RES and I love him dearly! The "cloudy" water has happened to me too! Was this new turtle from a store? Or was it living outside when you got him? Just keep an eye out for disease and correct it quickly or you'll lose both of them!
Unfortunatly what you probably need to do is get a lager tank and a larger filter. Sorry to give bad news.
Get some cloud remover. You may also need to get a bigger tank. I also have 2 red eared sliders. I keep them in a kiddie pool with an island in the center, heat lamp hanging which works great. The water rarely gets cloudy. And usually only after a water change.
My RES is still alive mainly because of the great advice I've received from this website: http://www.redearslider.com/forum/index..
Ask your question there and you will get the best advice!
I have a newt and a frog in a 10 gal. aquarium, what other animals can i put with them?
Answers:
You can add fish but be careful how many and what kind. Too many will actually hit the health of the animals due to lack of "habitat" and some fish eat newts and frogs.
Talk to someone at a pet store about the most appropriate animals to add.
Not really much. If you want you can add some tiny feeder fish(not gold fish) thats only if you have a filter and don't mind a few getting ate. Newts and frog are so sensitve, you don't want to add anything that can hurt them.
A snake! HEHEHEHE
A small iguana, but not for long seeing they grow pretty fast and will take up space, but being vegetarians they wont eat the frog or newt.
I have a male anole. He has a lump behind his eye and his eye is swelled. What is wrong with him?
His tank is spotless. He eats. He gets enough heat and light.
Answers:
I have heard of this happening with the anoles.
There are many diseases and conditions that can cause the type of eye problems that you are describing. This could be a parasitic problem, bacterial problem, fungal disease, congenital problem, foreign body or environmental issues.
Here is a good link describing this problem and it basically recommends you find a qualified vet.
http://www.animalnetwork.com/reptiles/de.
Therefor please also see the second link
on a host of anole problems and proper care. Make sure you are doing all the right things.
It's hard to say what the problem might be. But reading this info is a good place to start
http://www.kingsnake.com/anolecare/25.ht.
are u sure its not a ear i also had one
I've owned a lot of lizards in my time. You've got an unusual symptom there. Small lizards like anoles can and usually die from strange lumps or things along that nature. They're just too fragile to handle the stress of an illness. I don't really want to sound cruel (it's not my intention) but for the price of an anole you're probably better off to wrap him up, put him in your freezer (the most humane way to mercy kill), and get another healthy one. Only take him to the vet if you love him and he is worth the vet bill.
He might have gotten in infection. Take to vet immediately!
Take him to a vet. ( I mean it QUICKLY!)
I'm sorry for your loss:-(
Answers:
I have heard of this happening with the anoles.
There are many diseases and conditions that can cause the type of eye problems that you are describing. This could be a parasitic problem, bacterial problem, fungal disease, congenital problem, foreign body or environmental issues.
Here is a good link describing this problem and it basically recommends you find a qualified vet.
http://www.animalnetwork.com/reptiles/de.
Therefor please also see the second link
on a host of anole problems and proper care. Make sure you are doing all the right things.
It's hard to say what the problem might be. But reading this info is a good place to start
http://www.kingsnake.com/anolecare/25.ht.
are u sure its not a ear i also had one
I've owned a lot of lizards in my time. You've got an unusual symptom there. Small lizards like anoles can and usually die from strange lumps or things along that nature. They're just too fragile to handle the stress of an illness. I don't really want to sound cruel (it's not my intention) but for the price of an anole you're probably better off to wrap him up, put him in your freezer (the most humane way to mercy kill), and get another healthy one. Only take him to the vet if you love him and he is worth the vet bill.
He might have gotten in infection. Take to vet immediately!
Take him to a vet. ( I mean it QUICKLY!)
I'm sorry for your loss:-(
I have a leapord gecko?
I have a leapord gecko and he seems lonely. She wont do anything or eat anything. I cant afford another 1 or a vet! HELP!
Answers:
dear Alicia R
in order to help i need to know a few things. What is the temp in the tank? What kind of bedding do you have in the cage ( bark, sand etc.) What are you feeding her? how long have you had her? Is she a baby or juvenile or adult? Is her tail getting thin or is it still fat? Do you see any poop in the cage? Do you dust the crickets with a vitamin/ calcium dust?
you can email me at djnelson@aquarealmaquarium.com
let her see how its like outside. if you can do that.
if the bones /joints are stiff or if its tail has become skinny and is it nipping you?it might have a bone diesease.you should feed it mealworms crickets super worms pinkies, baby mice. if it is fullgrown.if is a baby only feed it crickets and small meal worms .also feed it dry gecko formula wetted down.your gecko needs a heat lamp or its food could become impacted.small geckos need mineral sand.big geckos need desert gravel news paper,carpet grass for bedding.dont give them a hollow rock home .or a heat rock will burn them.plenty of water and soak you gecko in water every 2 weeks but dont drown it.if your gecko has 2 bumps under the tail in the pravate area its a male.if it dosen't it's female.go to where you got it for help.
well if you dont get another one she will probably die cause they can get lonely adn the vet wouldnt do anyhting other then what i am tellnig you now, they arent that expensive so save up a week's worth of money or start diggin her grave. adn letting her starve herself is kinda cold hearted dontcha think??
my big brother had a leproad gecko he only could afford one too.
his always looked kinda lonley too you want to make sure he has lots of hiding spaces leapord geckos LOVE to hide and my brother had a big stick in there that you can get from out side and
make sure you play with him and hold him they love that. I have a strong love for all animals so i really hope he gets better!GOOD LUCK!
Answers:
dear Alicia R
in order to help i need to know a few things. What is the temp in the tank? What kind of bedding do you have in the cage ( bark, sand etc.) What are you feeding her? how long have you had her? Is she a baby or juvenile or adult? Is her tail getting thin or is it still fat? Do you see any poop in the cage? Do you dust the crickets with a vitamin/ calcium dust?
you can email me at djnelson@aquarealmaquarium.com
let her see how its like outside. if you can do that.
if the bones /joints are stiff or if its tail has become skinny and is it nipping you?it might have a bone diesease.you should feed it mealworms crickets super worms pinkies, baby mice. if it is fullgrown.if is a baby only feed it crickets and small meal worms .also feed it dry gecko formula wetted down.your gecko needs a heat lamp or its food could become impacted.small geckos need mineral sand.big geckos need desert gravel news paper,carpet grass for bedding.dont give them a hollow rock home .or a heat rock will burn them.plenty of water and soak you gecko in water every 2 weeks but dont drown it.if your gecko has 2 bumps under the tail in the pravate area its a male.if it dosen't it's female.go to where you got it for help.
well if you dont get another one she will probably die cause they can get lonely adn the vet wouldnt do anyhting other then what i am tellnig you now, they arent that expensive so save up a week's worth of money or start diggin her grave. adn letting her starve herself is kinda cold hearted dontcha think??
my big brother had a leproad gecko he only could afford one too.
his always looked kinda lonley too you want to make sure he has lots of hiding spaces leapord geckos LOVE to hide and my brother had a big stick in there that you can get from out side and
make sure you play with him and hold him they love that. I have a strong love for all animals so i really hope he gets better!GOOD LUCK!
i have a kingsnake. how old can they live. it is 2 yrs old now and 4 feet long?
Answers:
Dont Listen to anybody that says snakes are Bad, i think you have a nice snake ,it can live up to 20+ years i think, you snake looks like it's doing pretty good he might grow to six feet or 5 depends on what type am looking for a black and white banded carlifornia kingsnake, so your king looks like it's doing good am looking at probably 20-22 more years but i could be wrong
Alfie, I'm not picking on you but do you know anything about the animals you own?
wouldn't it be better to find these things out before you get them?
There are about 7 different types of kingsnakes. The record longevity exceeds 24 years.
Kingsnakes can live for over twenty years.
set the animal free in the jungle where it belongs.
i have a king snake which is 2 yrs old. how big will it grow to. it is 4 feet long now.?
Answers:
They tend to grow until they are about 4 years, but grow fastest the first two years. He should be almost done. You don't say what kind of king snake, and some varieties get really long. I would say he won't get more than 6 feet, maybe a little less. My Cape Gopher wasn't supposed to be more than 4 feet, and she is now a little over 5 feet, though, so it is hard to really say. Some depends on what breeding lines he is from, some breeders breed for size, some more for color! It does sound like he is doing well, just be sure that once his growth rate slows, you cut back his food a little bit so he doesn't put on too much weight. Mine went from eating every 7 days to every ten days, and is in good shape.
i heard of a king snake grow 2 9 feet, i suppose urs can also.
18 ft.
dont know probably 18 feet i heard
Up to seven feet. Visit this link:
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/snakes/a/.
well. i don't think its name King snake for nothing..hehe .
California Kingsnakes grow to a length of up to 5 feet (1.5 metres) and weigh as much as 4 pounds (1.8 kilograms).
The diet of the California Kingsnake is similar to that of other Kingsnakes. Prey include lizards, birds, and other snakes. During shedding the snake may not eat, as it cannot capture prey easily due to greatly reduced vision caused by the buildup of an oily substance underneath the eye coverings (brille).
yuk i hate snakes.. but thanks for the two points.
king snakes grow to normal 3-5 feet so max is 5 feet long.
possibly about another foot. They range anywhere between three and five feet. This link says "desert" on it, but it had the most information I could find.
boy u r brave.
do u work in the zoo,
is that supposed to be a pet?
take it easy man.
Depends mainly on you, the size of his cage has a part, also how much and how often you feed him. In captivity I have seen them grow to around 5 1/2 - 6 feet, in a zoo setting I have seen them get larger, apx 8-9 feet. This is of course for a banded king snake, the scarlet king snake is a smaller variety and I have never seen one over 2 1/2 feet long. The largest banded king snake I have captured (and released) in the wild was about 9 feet, they are truly remarkable animals, I just never could feed them, I love all animals and can't feed one to another.
Good Luck with your ssssssssnake!
The common can grow to between 3 and five feet so I would presume that your's is nearly there.
about four feet when full grown,some very rarely to almost 7Ft long
i have a juvenile baby iguana and he seem to be sick?
HE SHAKES HIS HEAD WHEN HE MOVES AND FALLS BACK ,NO APPETITE,ANY ADVICE
Answers:
he need a vet get it some calcium your doing something wrong with it. are you feeding it greens like collard, turnip, mustard greens, zuchinni,yams fruit. make sure it has small tiny chopped up pieces offer it water awlays.Is his environment warm enough?
Give him some sun at least 1 hour per day.
are his bones really soft? is than he probably has a bone disease. that will make them shake and not want to eat. i had iguanas for about 6 yrs and i did alot of rescues from shelters and a lot of them had the bone disease. you need to increase his calcium intake and give him the right kind of lighting.make sure you get a calcium vit and a multi vit as well. give both with every feeding and you will see that with this he will come around. if he gets better and if the bones were to soft and while healing he may not look the same because of the way the bones started to heal. good luck
What are the symptoms of your Iguana. it my be just pre shedding. or soft bone disease. try meal worms, cataloup, honey dew mellon. 1 prefurable more but atleased 1 hour a day direct sun light, put a couple 2 or 3 grains of salt on melon only on 1 piece per day.
sounds like mbd or metabolic bone diease try useing uvb light bulbs dust his food with calcum suplement 3 times a week freash water every day and a diet of freash vegies but not spinage or lettiuce
Answers:
he need a vet get it some calcium your doing something wrong with it. are you feeding it greens like collard, turnip, mustard greens, zuchinni,yams fruit. make sure it has small tiny chopped up pieces offer it water awlays.Is his environment warm enough?
Give him some sun at least 1 hour per day.
are his bones really soft? is than he probably has a bone disease. that will make them shake and not want to eat. i had iguanas for about 6 yrs and i did alot of rescues from shelters and a lot of them had the bone disease. you need to increase his calcium intake and give him the right kind of lighting.make sure you get a calcium vit and a multi vit as well. give both with every feeding and you will see that with this he will come around. if he gets better and if the bones were to soft and while healing he may not look the same because of the way the bones started to heal. good luck
What are the symptoms of your Iguana. it my be just pre shedding. or soft bone disease. try meal worms, cataloup, honey dew mellon. 1 prefurable more but atleased 1 hour a day direct sun light, put a couple 2 or 3 grains of salt on melon only on 1 piece per day.
sounds like mbd or metabolic bone diease try useing uvb light bulbs dust his food with calcum suplement 3 times a week freash water every day and a diet of freash vegies but not spinage or lettiuce
I have a green iguana and i am interested in house breaking him..do you know of sites or references?
He is just a baby still.. and i'm trying to train him to be able to roam around the house and to be very social and i cant have him going the bathroom all over the place.. i just need some references to go by.. i have looked and searched for about 6 months now on many things.. and have had them in the past.. but my dad always did the training.. and he and i dont speak any longer.. and suggestions?
Answers:
go to http://www.anapsid.org/ there is a section on housebreaking your iggys. Also there is a very good group at yahoo called babyiguanas group if your serious about proper care and raising of your baby.
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/babyi.
get over your issues and talk to your dad.
Try this website. http://marie.thoughtshop.net/sammy_j/toi.
http://www.reptilerescueca.org/101-tamin.
You want your iguana to break houses?
What is this? A Japanese Godzilla movie?
My Iguana is housebroken. She only goes to the bathroom in: a corner in my kitchen when she's indoors, and a patch of pachysandra when she's outdoors. I'm not quite sure how we trained her.When she was little, we would let her swim and relax in the tub for a little while each day, which stimulated her to go the bathroom in the tub. After she stopped liking the tub, whenever it was around the time of day she liked to go, we would put her in the bathroom and she would go behind the toilet and do it. (When we moved, she changed her preferred spot) She does not like to go the bathroom in open areas. She likes to be kind of hidden, such as in a corner, or in the plants. I also have found that flushing the toilet or running the sink makes her "go" faster.
My 2 adult iggies only use the bathroom when immersed in water..so I would suggest a daily bath at the same time every day, should take care of potty time.
google it
What I did to train my monitors was to let them go outside the cage (I know it is nasty but worth it in the long run). 9 times out of 10 they would go in the same place and all I did was let them. Then I just laid out newspaper where they went the most and used that. When they were comfortable with the newspaper I just moved the paper to wher I wanted them to go and they followed with it. It took about 3 months to do this but considering how long they live it was worth it. After about 6 more months I was able to make the switch to kitty litter. A long time yes but considering reptiles are all about instinct teaching them is a lengthy process. That is what worked for me.
Answers:
go to http://www.anapsid.org/ there is a section on housebreaking your iggys. Also there is a very good group at yahoo called babyiguanas group if your serious about proper care and raising of your baby.
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/babyi.
get over your issues and talk to your dad.
Try this website. http://marie.thoughtshop.net/sammy_j/toi.
http://www.reptilerescueca.org/101-tamin.
You want your iguana to break houses?
What is this? A Japanese Godzilla movie?
My Iguana is housebroken. She only goes to the bathroom in: a corner in my kitchen when she's indoors, and a patch of pachysandra when she's outdoors. I'm not quite sure how we trained her.When she was little, we would let her swim and relax in the tub for a little while each day, which stimulated her to go the bathroom in the tub. After she stopped liking the tub, whenever it was around the time of day she liked to go, we would put her in the bathroom and she would go behind the toilet and do it. (When we moved, she changed her preferred spot) She does not like to go the bathroom in open areas. She likes to be kind of hidden, such as in a corner, or in the plants. I also have found that flushing the toilet or running the sink makes her "go" faster.
My 2 adult iggies only use the bathroom when immersed in water..so I would suggest a daily bath at the same time every day, should take care of potty time.
google it
What I did to train my monitors was to let them go outside the cage (I know it is nasty but worth it in the long run). 9 times out of 10 they would go in the same place and all I did was let them. Then I just laid out newspaper where they went the most and used that. When they were comfortable with the newspaper I just moved the paper to wher I wanted them to go and they followed with it. It took about 3 months to do this but considering how long they live it was worth it. After about 6 more months I was able to make the switch to kitty litter. A long time yes but considering reptiles are all about instinct teaching them is a lengthy process. That is what worked for me.
I have a gecko that came in my house from outside and i can't get him out what do i feed him?
I know they eat live insects but i can't have a bunch of bugs running around. will he eat dead bugs? I tried to leave out some bread crumbs but i guess he doesn't eat that either. Also i live on a small island where there are no pet stores where I can buy dead bugs or anything. Please help me keep my wayward gecko alive.
Answers:
You don't have to feed it. It will find it's own food. If you live on a tropical island like I do, your house propably has more bugs than you know. You just don't see them. Your gecko will be fine. Just say, "Hello" when he runs up the wall as you are watching television, and try not to scream to loudly when he scares you.
You could keep the live insects in a container with holes in them and when you want to feed the gecko just get one out and give it to him and u should give him water if you didn't already.
He'll head outside soon enough, especially when the warmer weather is with us at night - when the bugs are out and about.
They like to head indoors every now and then, and will move to find food if there's none around inside.
The best thing to do is to try to gently capture him in a jar or something and release him back outdoors.
There probably isn't an easy way for you to feed him and maintain a proper diet for him. If he's stuck in a cabinet or some place you can't reach, you could at least provide a shallow dish of water or something.
Good luck.
Buy Insurance from it.:o)
Dead bugs should work.If it's hungry enough.
If he is running around your house, just let him be. He will find food.
Leave out a dish of water, but they get moisture from the air and from the bugs they eat.
If he is in a cage, you will have to find live bugs, or just let him go. They can survive on thier own.
Well - geckoes are supposed good luck, at least.Not so much for the poor lizard, though, if he starves! Thankfully, reptiles and amphibians require much less food than mammals, so he probably won't starve really quickly.
Since you can't get to a pet store, I guess Gecko Chow is out of the question. (Sorry, couldn't resist!) There's a little bit of information on Wikipedia about them, and there was a link to The Global Gecko Association - link below.
Here's an example of what they do:
"The Global Gecko Association (GGA) is dedicated to gecko enthusiasts worldwide. Membership is open to anyone with an interest in gekkonids, from the professional herpetologist to the hobbyist.
The GGA is an organization committed to promote interest in gekkonids in a variety of ways, from responsible captive care, to study in the wild, conservation, academic research and beyond. Furthermore, the GGA will serve people who are interested in gekkonids by providing a voice and means of communicating and sharing of resources and ideas."
There is also care and feeding information for different types of geckoes. I glanced at a couple of the species, and it said mealworms, crickets, and/or flies and moths were good for those; I imagine that's pretty accurate for all geckoes. One even said to try baby food!
Hopefully your little guy (or girl) will find his way back outdoors soon where he can find food on his own. Good luck!
go to the petshop and get locusts also go to the butcher and get minced beef
Gecko's eat flying insects and you do not have to feed them. They hunts for their food. If you want to help it out leave the porch light on and that will attract insects.
Hi, I don't have a gecko myself but I looked after my boyfriend's for 2 month and learned all sorts about them. Firstly, their main food is live crickets, depending on the size of the gecko depends on the size of crickets you should buy (i see you live on an island with no pet stores, so this may be really difficult for you), they need to be small enough for him to catch, but not big enough for him to choke on them. They tend not to eat dead bugs, even if they are desperate, they like to prey on them first. I noticed that my boyfriend's gecko sometimes managed to kill the crickets but refused to eat them if he saw another one moving. Also, if you are feeding him random bugs (which i wouldn't advise unless you know from a good source that they are ok), then I would always try and identify them before feeding them to him. Geckos also tend to need a lot of heat, my boyfriend kept a heat pad under his terrarium to keep it hot enough for the gecko, they also need a cool place they can hide, like half a cocnut shell turned upside down (if he's small enough). Geckos are also nocturnal, so keeping them in a quiet room/ part of your house is a good idea, if your lucky enough to be really quiet and have good eyesight in the dark, they really are wonderful to watch at night time. If you can't care for him properly (through no fault of your own), find someone who will, they're beautiful animals that need good care and looking after.
Answers:
You don't have to feed it. It will find it's own food. If you live on a tropical island like I do, your house propably has more bugs than you know. You just don't see them. Your gecko will be fine. Just say, "Hello" when he runs up the wall as you are watching television, and try not to scream to loudly when he scares you.
You could keep the live insects in a container with holes in them and when you want to feed the gecko just get one out and give it to him and u should give him water if you didn't already.
He'll head outside soon enough, especially when the warmer weather is with us at night - when the bugs are out and about.
They like to head indoors every now and then, and will move to find food if there's none around inside.
The best thing to do is to try to gently capture him in a jar or something and release him back outdoors.
There probably isn't an easy way for you to feed him and maintain a proper diet for him. If he's stuck in a cabinet or some place you can't reach, you could at least provide a shallow dish of water or something.
Good luck.
Buy Insurance from it.:o)
Dead bugs should work.If it's hungry enough.
If he is running around your house, just let him be. He will find food.
Leave out a dish of water, but they get moisture from the air and from the bugs they eat.
If he is in a cage, you will have to find live bugs, or just let him go. They can survive on thier own.
Well - geckoes are supposed good luck, at least.Not so much for the poor lizard, though, if he starves! Thankfully, reptiles and amphibians require much less food than mammals, so he probably won't starve really quickly.
Since you can't get to a pet store, I guess Gecko Chow is out of the question. (Sorry, couldn't resist!) There's a little bit of information on Wikipedia about them, and there was a link to The Global Gecko Association - link below.
Here's an example of what they do:
"The Global Gecko Association (GGA) is dedicated to gecko enthusiasts worldwide. Membership is open to anyone with an interest in gekkonids, from the professional herpetologist to the hobbyist.
The GGA is an organization committed to promote interest in gekkonids in a variety of ways, from responsible captive care, to study in the wild, conservation, academic research and beyond. Furthermore, the GGA will serve people who are interested in gekkonids by providing a voice and means of communicating and sharing of resources and ideas."
There is also care and feeding information for different types of geckoes. I glanced at a couple of the species, and it said mealworms, crickets, and/or flies and moths were good for those; I imagine that's pretty accurate for all geckoes. One even said to try baby food!
Hopefully your little guy (or girl) will find his way back outdoors soon where he can find food on his own. Good luck!
go to the petshop and get locusts also go to the butcher and get minced beef
Gecko's eat flying insects and you do not have to feed them. They hunts for their food. If you want to help it out leave the porch light on and that will attract insects.
Hi, I don't have a gecko myself but I looked after my boyfriend's for 2 month and learned all sorts about them. Firstly, their main food is live crickets, depending on the size of the gecko depends on the size of crickets you should buy (i see you live on an island with no pet stores, so this may be really difficult for you), they need to be small enough for him to catch, but not big enough for him to choke on them. They tend not to eat dead bugs, even if they are desperate, they like to prey on them first. I noticed that my boyfriend's gecko sometimes managed to kill the crickets but refused to eat them if he saw another one moving. Also, if you are feeding him random bugs (which i wouldn't advise unless you know from a good source that they are ok), then I would always try and identify them before feeding them to him. Geckos also tend to need a lot of heat, my boyfriend kept a heat pad under his terrarium to keep it hot enough for the gecko, they also need a cool place they can hide, like half a cocnut shell turned upside down (if he's small enough). Geckos are also nocturnal, so keeping them in a quiet room/ part of your house is a good idea, if your lucky enough to be really quiet and have good eyesight in the dark, they really are wonderful to watch at night time. If you can't care for him properly (through no fault of your own), find someone who will, they're beautiful animals that need good care and looking after.
I have a crocodile living under my house what should I do?
I is a grown-up!
Answers:
Climb under the house with some raw chicken and call him out with a "here Kitty Kitty".
Call him Frank, all Crock's are named Frank.
They are quite good poker players also, bring a deck of cards.
Good luck with your new friend.
Yours: Grumpy
Call animal control.
all the authorities,
Eeeek! That's not good at all!! I read in a book on reptiles that alligators r shy but Crocs. Uh-Oh! get an apartment or move! r u even able to get out without it snapping it's jaws at u?
Have sex with it and start a family.
Call the animal people. 911 yah know.
Call the animal control or the police and they'll know who to call.
call crocodile hunter
Feed it pigs
Keep it as a Watch Man
Answers:
Climb under the house with some raw chicken and call him out with a "here Kitty Kitty".
Call him Frank, all Crock's are named Frank.
They are quite good poker players also, bring a deck of cards.
Good luck with your new friend.
Yours: Grumpy
Call animal control.
all the authorities,
Eeeek! That's not good at all!! I read in a book on reptiles that alligators r shy but Crocs. Uh-Oh! get an apartment or move! r u even able to get out without it snapping it's jaws at u?
Have sex with it and start a family.
Call the animal people. 911 yah know.
Call the animal control or the police and they'll know who to call.
call crocodile hunter
Feed it pigs
Keep it as a Watch Man
I have a corn snake & sometimes when I go to take her out she shakes her tail like a rattle snake what does?
this mean?
Answers:
It's pretty normal for them to do that. It's an instinctive defensive method. Let's say they immitate what other snakes do to scare away their predators. A lot of species do the same trick. Even rattlesnake close relatives which don't possess a rattle do it.
I would guess it's similar to when a rattler buzzes his rattle, a warning or show of alertness to possible danger.
id say she is pissed ,just natures way of giving them a defence system i guess i had a 6 foot black snake that did the same thing right before it bit the he-- out of me id watch out for the strike if i were you
she is just trying to scare you it's only a deense mechanism
Hi . my son and I breed corn snakes, here's the answer, its kind of interesting. First, its nothing to worry about if you know a bit about these animals. They inhabit exactly the same habitat as rattlers in all parts of the country, so, through the miracle of evolution (sorry you other guys), they've adapted this behavior. If it sounds like a rattler, it must be a rattler, so I'll leave it alone. Its a great defensive measure when you think about it.
We have one bright red corn snake that does this on a regular basis .very interesting.
She's immitating the rattle snake behavior. Many non-venomous snakes do this. It makes predators think it's a rattle snake so they'll leave it alone.
its a mimic of a typical rattlesnake and is used to ward off predators
my king snake does the same thing its just that she is frightened once she is out she will calm down
some snakes to that to copy a rattler the scare things off. it just means is feeling treatened
i have a corn snake too but shes never done that. i read your question last night adn asked my friend (the breeder i got the snake from) and he said that its unusual but it happens adn that he(she) could be trying to make him(her)self look bigger or more intimidating adn that your snake is nerous. he sugguested that you take it out more often, once a day if you can, or at least once a week so it gets more used to being handled
good luck
Answers:
It's pretty normal for them to do that. It's an instinctive defensive method. Let's say they immitate what other snakes do to scare away their predators. A lot of species do the same trick. Even rattlesnake close relatives which don't possess a rattle do it.
I would guess it's similar to when a rattler buzzes his rattle, a warning or show of alertness to possible danger.
id say she is pissed ,just natures way of giving them a defence system i guess i had a 6 foot black snake that did the same thing right before it bit the he-- out of me id watch out for the strike if i were you
she is just trying to scare you it's only a deense mechanism
Hi . my son and I breed corn snakes, here's the answer, its kind of interesting. First, its nothing to worry about if you know a bit about these animals. They inhabit exactly the same habitat as rattlers in all parts of the country, so, through the miracle of evolution (sorry you other guys), they've adapted this behavior. If it sounds like a rattler, it must be a rattler, so I'll leave it alone. Its a great defensive measure when you think about it.
We have one bright red corn snake that does this on a regular basis .very interesting.
She's immitating the rattle snake behavior. Many non-venomous snakes do this. It makes predators think it's a rattle snake so they'll leave it alone.
its a mimic of a typical rattlesnake and is used to ward off predators
my king snake does the same thing its just that she is frightened once she is out she will calm down
some snakes to that to copy a rattler the scare things off. it just means is feeling treatened
i have a corn snake too but shes never done that. i read your question last night adn asked my friend (the breeder i got the snake from) and he said that its unusual but it happens adn that he(she) could be trying to make him(her)self look bigger or more intimidating adn that your snake is nerous. he sugguested that you take it out more often, once a day if you can, or at least once a week so it gets more used to being handled
good luck
I have a captive born Northern Pine Snake.Can I release it into the wild successfully?
My son had this snake when he died. He was only 17 and it is one of the few things I have to remember him with. But, as time has passed, I have wondered if it would be better for the Pine Snake to be released into the wild, here in Oregon. They are indiginous to the area, but is this the humane thing to do? Thanks for any help.
Answers:
look in a phone book find a place with vets . or a nature reserver you know of ask them there they will be able to tell you what to do .
no
no
No. No animal that is accustomed to being cared for and protected can make it in the wild by just being released. Ask your veterinarian if he/she knows of a wildlife rehabilitator nearby to help acclimate the snake to fend for itself.
The biggest problem is that the snake doesn't fear natural predators like people and dogs because the snake has always been around them. The snake needs to be taught to fend for itself and only a wildlife rehabilitator can do that effectively.
That would not be the best thing for it. The snake is used to having it's meals fed to it and is not used to having to hunt for it's own meals. If you release it into the wild, it might die because it doesn't know how to hunt. Btw, I'm very sorry to hear about your son.
Not the best thing to do. Check with your local nature center to see if they need one for education purposes. In your sons memory.
Sorry for your loss.
I'm sorry for your loss, and I'm glad you are thinking of the snake's welfare. Captive born reptiles (and other animals) fare VERY badly in the wild. Not because they are used to being fed or don't fear predators etc. that's all instinctive. The problem is that they generally have severely depressed immune systems that can't cope with the wide range of diseases and parasites that they would encounter in the wild. It's like living in a plastic bubble. If you don't feel that you can or want to take care of the snake anymore, I'm sure you can find a good home for him, through a pet shop, humane society, vet's office, newspaper, local herp society, word of mouth etc. Good luck!
no it would not know how to survive especially when it comes to food it will only eat what you've been feeding it. take an ad out in your local paper and offer it to a good home
Sorry for the lost
Hope you'll feel better.
Just give it to someone that would love to have a snake.
But I don't think that you can put it in the wild without it hurting and one or dying itself.
Answers:
look in a phone book find a place with vets . or a nature reserver you know of ask them there they will be able to tell you what to do .
no
no
No. No animal that is accustomed to being cared for and protected can make it in the wild by just being released. Ask your veterinarian if he/she knows of a wildlife rehabilitator nearby to help acclimate the snake to fend for itself.
The biggest problem is that the snake doesn't fear natural predators like people and dogs because the snake has always been around them. The snake needs to be taught to fend for itself and only a wildlife rehabilitator can do that effectively.
That would not be the best thing for it. The snake is used to having it's meals fed to it and is not used to having to hunt for it's own meals. If you release it into the wild, it might die because it doesn't know how to hunt. Btw, I'm very sorry to hear about your son.
Not the best thing to do. Check with your local nature center to see if they need one for education purposes. In your sons memory.
Sorry for your loss.
I'm sorry for your loss, and I'm glad you are thinking of the snake's welfare. Captive born reptiles (and other animals) fare VERY badly in the wild. Not because they are used to being fed or don't fear predators etc. that's all instinctive. The problem is that they generally have severely depressed immune systems that can't cope with the wide range of diseases and parasites that they would encounter in the wild. It's like living in a plastic bubble. If you don't feel that you can or want to take care of the snake anymore, I'm sure you can find a good home for him, through a pet shop, humane society, vet's office, newspaper, local herp society, word of mouth etc. Good luck!
no it would not know how to survive especially when it comes to food it will only eat what you've been feeding it. take an ad out in your local paper and offer it to a good home
Sorry for the lost
Hope you'll feel better.
Just give it to someone that would love to have a snake.
But I don't think that you can put it in the wild without it hurting and one or dying itself.
I have a calafornian king snake am i safe to get her a companion in the same vavarium?
sorry bout the spellin
Answers:
King snakes are notorious for being cannibalistic (meaning that they will eat their own kind).
They are solitary snakes and it is not recommended to keep king snakes with other snakes.
No California kingsnakes and other kingsnakes will kill and eat other snakes. That's why they have the name KINGsnake. If you put another snake in with them you will end up with one very fat California kingsnake.
You have to be VERY careful with Kingsnakes since they're cannibalistic! I assume you know this and thus the question. I have heard stories where people were trying to breed them and their 2 snakes would magically become 1 fat snake! I don't recommend it unless you are dead set on breeding, in which case you'd better confer with an experienced herpetologist.
You could try it and maybe be okay as long as you kept them both well fed (always feeding in separate cages though). I, personally, don't think it's worth it. If you want another snake, get a separate "vivarium" ;) and just do it that way.
NO!..Kingsnakes are like the garbage disposals of the reptile world. They eat snakes and lizards in the wild, they will eat all kinds of small fuzzie animals. I told one guy once maybe like a big tortoise or box turtle, but the turtle might be living in fear with him.
Kingsnakes are known to eat snakes that are the same size as themselves so please don't try to mix them.
No-they are cannibalistic.
Answers:
King snakes are notorious for being cannibalistic (meaning that they will eat their own kind).
They are solitary snakes and it is not recommended to keep king snakes with other snakes.
No California kingsnakes and other kingsnakes will kill and eat other snakes. That's why they have the name KINGsnake. If you put another snake in with them you will end up with one very fat California kingsnake.
You have to be VERY careful with Kingsnakes since they're cannibalistic! I assume you know this and thus the question. I have heard stories where people were trying to breed them and their 2 snakes would magically become 1 fat snake! I don't recommend it unless you are dead set on breeding, in which case you'd better confer with an experienced herpetologist.
You could try it and maybe be okay as long as you kept them both well fed (always feeding in separate cages though). I, personally, don't think it's worth it. If you want another snake, get a separate "vivarium" ;) and just do it that way.
NO!..Kingsnakes are like the garbage disposals of the reptile world. They eat snakes and lizards in the wild, they will eat all kinds of small fuzzie animals. I told one guy once maybe like a big tortoise or box turtle, but the turtle might be living in fear with him.
Kingsnakes are known to eat snakes that are the same size as themselves so please don't try to mix them.
No-they are cannibalistic.
I have a ball python?
i have fed my python in a different cage but after putting him in his original cage. i have waited 2 days to pick him up again but he seems the striking position and strikes how do i get him to stay calm to where i can pick him up again
Answers:
Waiting to handle a snake after feeding is not about getting bit so much as it is about the snake regurgitating its meal.
A lot of snakes are skittish in the cage. Some will strike at you when you go to pick them up. They may or may not bite.
If you are nervous about taking a bite, use some gloves to pick him up. He may not ever like the taking out of the cage part of handling, but over time, he should grow accustomed to being handled.
If you keep snakes long enough, you are going to take a bite from time to time. But, my cat has bit me plenty of times, and my dog has bit me when playing (over excited). I don't keep venomous snakes or giant breeds of snakes, so getting bit is not a big deal. It doesn't tickle, sometimes it bleeds, but it's just an annoyance. Picking up after my dog when he does his business and cleaning the cat litter box are daily annoyances. Snake bites are few and far between.
I've given you a link to the ball python discussion forum at kingsnake.com. You will find great information there from people whoi actually know something about ball pythons, unlike what you're going to get here.
show him whos boss and pick his up.
Two days should be fine to pick him up. Just pick him up. Depending on how long he is, it shouldn't hurt too much. A baby will just tag you and there will probably be no bleeding. Adult or not, it wont hurt too much.
My corn snake Rose was really aggressive but I just picked her up quickly before she could assume striking position. That seemed to break the ice and now I can wait a bit and clean her cage without her trying to eat my hand.
So just pick the python up and hold him in about 10 -15 minute sessions and he should mellow out. Ball pythons are one of the most docile species of snakes. Besides corns, of course. ;)
he may still be hungry.how big is he?what did you feed him?bigger snakes need bigger food(guienie pigs,rabbits),also he is gonna think whatever it is you put in his cage is food,and he will most likely strike.(it don't hurt but for a minute,j/k)
How often do you normally handle him? How big is he? I'm always a little leary to pick up my little girl for awhile after she's eaten too! He could still be hungry.
just make sure hes well fed and dont hesitate to go in there and grab him.. i get bit at least once a week by something or another.. its realy no big deal.
Answers:
Waiting to handle a snake after feeding is not about getting bit so much as it is about the snake regurgitating its meal.
A lot of snakes are skittish in the cage. Some will strike at you when you go to pick them up. They may or may not bite.
If you are nervous about taking a bite, use some gloves to pick him up. He may not ever like the taking out of the cage part of handling, but over time, he should grow accustomed to being handled.
If you keep snakes long enough, you are going to take a bite from time to time. But, my cat has bit me plenty of times, and my dog has bit me when playing (over excited). I don't keep venomous snakes or giant breeds of snakes, so getting bit is not a big deal. It doesn't tickle, sometimes it bleeds, but it's just an annoyance. Picking up after my dog when he does his business and cleaning the cat litter box are daily annoyances. Snake bites are few and far between.
I've given you a link to the ball python discussion forum at kingsnake.com. You will find great information there from people whoi actually know something about ball pythons, unlike what you're going to get here.
show him whos boss and pick his up.
Two days should be fine to pick him up. Just pick him up. Depending on how long he is, it shouldn't hurt too much. A baby will just tag you and there will probably be no bleeding. Adult or not, it wont hurt too much.
My corn snake Rose was really aggressive but I just picked her up quickly before she could assume striking position. That seemed to break the ice and now I can wait a bit and clean her cage without her trying to eat my hand.
So just pick the python up and hold him in about 10 -15 minute sessions and he should mellow out. Ball pythons are one of the most docile species of snakes. Besides corns, of course. ;)
he may still be hungry.how big is he?what did you feed him?bigger snakes need bigger food(guienie pigs,rabbits),also he is gonna think whatever it is you put in his cage is food,and he will most likely strike.(it don't hurt but for a minute,j/k)
How often do you normally handle him? How big is he? I'm always a little leary to pick up my little girl for awhile after she's eaten too! He could still be hungry.
just make sure hes well fed and dont hesitate to go in there and grab him.. i get bit at least once a week by something or another.. its realy no big deal.
I have a ball python who is about 3 years old and would like to put a small turtle with him. Is this a good id
Answers:
This person has asked the same quaestion about putting a turtle with a goldfish. Just trying to get a reaction I think %26show ing how silly they are really.
I don't think so..
No this is not a good idea. Reptile species should not be mixed.
Ma'am, how old are you? The answer is NO. Take a minute to go to this web site and write and tell me what you learned, if impressed I get the 10 points OK?
God Bless You and The Southern people.
No, absolutly not. It would cause serious unnecessary stress to both animals. The fact that you are asking this question justshows that you certainly are not responsible enough to have an animal since you've done absolutly no research at all!
no,because the snake might try to eat the turtle if its small enough,and the turtle if scared will bite you snake,putting them together is a bad idea
no!! not too smart, even though turtles arent there prefered food, if the snake gets hungry the turtle would be an appropriate snack til you get its mouse/rat. i wouldnt risk it
why would u even think about killing a turtle
no, they need different substrates, heat and humidity requirements. also, the residue from leftover turtle (i am assuming you mean a tortoise-what species) greens would cause bacteria that could damage your snakes health.
it is a bad idea. repitals need to be seperated by there own species
No, not really. The snake will probably eat the turtle. You can put them in an enclosure together, but make sure there is a divider in their enclosure to separate them.
+?+Marissa+?+
NO! Not if you care for the life of your turtle. Depending on the size of your snake vs the size of your turtle, the snake may have enough strength to literally crush the turtle's shell. If the snake happens to get the turtle's head in it's mouth, but the turtle is otherwise too large to be swallowed, it can NOT let go. I'm sure you aren't highly inclined to like prying your snake's mouth from your dead turtle's head. The snake is a hunter, any other creature in it's surroundings is prey. For the safety of your turtle, your snake, and you, please DON'T PUT YOUR TURTLE IN WITH YOUR SNAKE.
sure..if you want a dead turtle and a dead snake.
I am having a really hard time wondering if this is a real question!
no that would be the worst idea to have as the python would try to kill then eat the turtle so it's not a good idea to put them in the same viv unless you put a bloke of wood in the middle of the viv. I hope the last bit helps.
no
I have a baby painted turtle.Im wondering if I need a heat lamp for him.?
Im also wondering what kind of worms to feed him and where to get them. I understand that he eats small worms I just don't know what kind.
Answers:
I strongly recommend you visiting http://www.turtleexchange.com/forum. for information on what to feed your turtle and I believe you do need a heat lamp. Alot depends on the temperature of where you are. But more than likely yes a heater is necessary. Basking lamps. All turtles need UVA/UVB bulbs to simulate the sun. There is a whole section dedicated to water turtles.
Buy it proper food from a pet store, dont experiment. And personally I think its cruel to paint turtles.
Can you not go to the pet store and ask for advice??
I am no expert but I had a pet snap turtle one time and he was fine with out a lamp. we bought pellets for him to eat from the pet store and let him out in the grass often so he could eat whatever he wanted.
Go to the pet store and buy a heated rock that goes right in the tank. The lamp is a bad idea. They will also be able to sell you turtle food with the best nutrients.
I've had a painted turtle once and he was fine with out lamp. As for food the best place to go is the pet store b/c if you feed him the wrong stuff he may die.
Common earth worms will do just fine just make sure you dip them in hot water and buy them if your lawn has pesticides
as for the heat lamp if he's outside and its cold yes, otherwise no,
If hes in side a common aquarium light is good but turn it off at night because algae will grow on his back and isn't good.
Use it all night if it is cold.
Its also good because they like to sun themselves.
But a light isnts necessary for their survival, sun is okay
As they get older they will start to eat veggies and food pellets.
Ive had mine for 6 years now and i got him as a baby
Be aware that baby turtles are not super easy pets.
Heating: The water should be heated to about 75-80- but have some cooler spots and be allowed to cool off a little at night. The basking sites should be heated to about 90- and along with sheer heat, need to offer some ultra-violet light as well, especially UV-B. UV light does not pass through most glass.
Diet: The BEST option is a high-quality turtle pellet food. Some companies offer a special size and formula for babies. As you learn about your pet you can supplement this with things like bloodworms and other small things.
About the best site for pond turtle care I know about is the one below. While it is designed for Red-ear sliders, the advice works for most American pond turtles.
I have 3 red eared sliders and also 2 yellow cooters i keep them in a pond in my kitchen as they are really fun to watch. i feed mine shrimp but mine are aquatic.one thing to keep in mind is they usually are wild and they eat certain things that are in their invironment such as berries or insects.I do keep a heat lamp on at all times and this is why..Turtles NEED to use the sun to warm up . They are cold blooded, meaning their bodies take on the temperature of their environment. In order to move well, and even to digest their food, turtles must first warm up. The sun also keeps the turtle free of parasites and helps it make vitamin D.hope this helps!
Yes you do need a lamp since all reptiles are cold blooded. His cage should stay around 90 degrees during the day and put a night lamp on him at night to maintain a temp of at least 80. Painted turtles love meal worms go to your local pet store and they should have these available in different sizes.
Why do people even have pet reptiles? I mean . . . isn't it true most people with pet snakes, lizards, or other reptiles are just feaks looking for attention or trying to be cool. The reality is they are just dorks. I mean. . . . do you cuddle up with your turtle. . . or take him for a walk. . . or play fetch with him? NO. . . they just sit there and if you get anywhere near them they will bite your balls off! It's kind of like people who have fish in a tiny bowl or birds in a cage. . . what is the freeking use? It's cruel to the animals.
you need to get a heat lamp so they can get proper vitamins and you can go to a pet store and get the worms.
earthworms, dig them up in the yard
also flies and bugs
Answers:
I strongly recommend you visiting http://www.turtleexchange.com/forum. for information on what to feed your turtle and I believe you do need a heat lamp. Alot depends on the temperature of where you are. But more than likely yes a heater is necessary. Basking lamps. All turtles need UVA/UVB bulbs to simulate the sun. There is a whole section dedicated to water turtles.
Buy it proper food from a pet store, dont experiment. And personally I think its cruel to paint turtles.
Can you not go to the pet store and ask for advice??
I am no expert but I had a pet snap turtle one time and he was fine with out a lamp. we bought pellets for him to eat from the pet store and let him out in the grass often so he could eat whatever he wanted.
Go to the pet store and buy a heated rock that goes right in the tank. The lamp is a bad idea. They will also be able to sell you turtle food with the best nutrients.
I've had a painted turtle once and he was fine with out lamp. As for food the best place to go is the pet store b/c if you feed him the wrong stuff he may die.
Common earth worms will do just fine just make sure you dip them in hot water and buy them if your lawn has pesticides
as for the heat lamp if he's outside and its cold yes, otherwise no,
If hes in side a common aquarium light is good but turn it off at night because algae will grow on his back and isn't good.
Use it all night if it is cold.
Its also good because they like to sun themselves.
But a light isnts necessary for their survival, sun is okay
As they get older they will start to eat veggies and food pellets.
Ive had mine for 6 years now and i got him as a baby
Be aware that baby turtles are not super easy pets.
Heating: The water should be heated to about 75-80- but have some cooler spots and be allowed to cool off a little at night. The basking sites should be heated to about 90- and along with sheer heat, need to offer some ultra-violet light as well, especially UV-B. UV light does not pass through most glass.
Diet: The BEST option is a high-quality turtle pellet food. Some companies offer a special size and formula for babies. As you learn about your pet you can supplement this with things like bloodworms and other small things.
About the best site for pond turtle care I know about is the one below. While it is designed for Red-ear sliders, the advice works for most American pond turtles.
I have 3 red eared sliders and also 2 yellow cooters i keep them in a pond in my kitchen as they are really fun to watch. i feed mine shrimp but mine are aquatic.one thing to keep in mind is they usually are wild and they eat certain things that are in their invironment such as berries or insects.I do keep a heat lamp on at all times and this is why..Turtles NEED to use the sun to warm up . They are cold blooded, meaning their bodies take on the temperature of their environment. In order to move well, and even to digest their food, turtles must first warm up. The sun also keeps the turtle free of parasites and helps it make vitamin D.hope this helps!
Yes you do need a lamp since all reptiles are cold blooded. His cage should stay around 90 degrees during the day and put a night lamp on him at night to maintain a temp of at least 80. Painted turtles love meal worms go to your local pet store and they should have these available in different sizes.
Why do people even have pet reptiles? I mean . . . isn't it true most people with pet snakes, lizards, or other reptiles are just feaks looking for attention or trying to be cool. The reality is they are just dorks. I mean. . . . do you cuddle up with your turtle. . . or take him for a walk. . . or play fetch with him? NO. . . they just sit there and if you get anywhere near them they will bite your balls off! It's kind of like people who have fish in a tiny bowl or birds in a cage. . . what is the freeking use? It's cruel to the animals.
you need to get a heat lamp so they can get proper vitamins and you can go to a pet store and get the worms.
earthworms, dig them up in the yard
also flies and bugs
I have a baby painted turtle.he hatched a few days ago. he wont eat any kind of worms or crickets.help us!
we have him in a 10 gallon tank with rocks sand and we have an upside down frisbee filled with water for the water source. We thought he ate the first earthworm we put in there.but we found the worm hiding a couple days later. Yesterday I noticed that he was trying to eat the rocks in the sand.so we put a mealworm next to him and he still wont eat it.he wont even eat the pellets. I dont know how he is still alive!!
Answers:
Some turtles will eat plants. You could try giving him a piece of fruit and seeing if he eats that. Also, don't stick around to watch him eat; that might just scare him into not eating. Keep in mind turtles aren't easy to take care of, so be prepared for problems.
I had a baby painted turtle too, and I fed him small pieces of earth worms, but the water source should be deep enough for him to swim in and when in the water feed him the worm by holding it and dipping it into the water. mine is 6 years old now. As babies that are mostly insectivores and don't eat veggies but as they get older they do. thay won't start eating the food sticks until they are a couple of months old. Since thay can live until they are 36 years old make sure your commited beacuse once thayre used to you it's hard to change their behavior.
First be shure there are some tiny peables or sand or something of that nature he can eat (the reason it he needs that to help dijest food. Also keep trying the foods you are when he is hungry enough he will eat. Be shure what your feeding him is not to large, it should not be much bigger than his head. Finally try some fruits and vegtables. painted turtles eat mostly meat but they do need some plants, espesialy when they are young.
You shudnt feed im for a few days, Then give it a few plants to eat,
Give him green-leaf lettuce like romaine
Call your local vet and if you don't want to do that call your nearest zoo, who will be able to give some advise about your problem.
You might ask these guys. They know a lot about reptiles and amphibians, and I know they've raised a lot of different animals.
http://www.turtlediscovery.com
1. Baby turtles often do not eat until a week after the yolk sac is gone. in fact, feeding them early can mess them up.
2. Baby turtles are aquatic animals and the aquarium should be filled with at least several inches of water, with several rocks or branches for it to climb out on.
3. Mealworms are terrible food items for ANY reptile- the hard shell clogs the intestines.
You can learn more about caring for most American pond turtles at this site which is geared towards Red-ear sliders- but most of it works for Painteds as well:
Madkins007 nailed it. Give him a few more days before you try feeding him again, he'll eat when he's ready.
All baby turtles will not eat anything for approx 7 days after leaving the shell. Mostly your baby turtle will be looking for good hiding spots. You should have your painted turtle in a habitat that has both a place to get into water and a place that has dry land. The water should never get too cold nor too hot. Likewise, the basking spot should not get too cold nor too hot. NEVER use hot rocks. Earth worms maybe ok for adult painted but you might want to look into buying some trout size earth worms. They are more a baby turtles size. Get a log hide from your local pet store and some aquatic plants for the water side of your turtles habitat. Make sure that you have an under the gravel (I prefer large stone for aquarium habitats) filter as turtles will often make "doo" when they hit warm water. Provide a true sun light source as your baby turtle will need both UVA and UVB to grow strong and healthy.
Do not feed lettuce. There is no nutritional value.
Do feed bits of tomatoes, any kind of squash, dandylion leaves, earth worms, trout worms, and frozen blood worms.
hey, i have the same problem with a baby diamondback terrapin. if he still has a yolk sack scar, dont even try yet, because it could hurt him to eat too early. you really need to have him in a tank full of water with a turtle dock to sun on, instead of the currant set-up. anyways, they can go up to a month without eating, so give it some time.Also, they NEED to be in water to swallow. Hope he's ok!
Answers:
Some turtles will eat plants. You could try giving him a piece of fruit and seeing if he eats that. Also, don't stick around to watch him eat; that might just scare him into not eating. Keep in mind turtles aren't easy to take care of, so be prepared for problems.
I had a baby painted turtle too, and I fed him small pieces of earth worms, but the water source should be deep enough for him to swim in and when in the water feed him the worm by holding it and dipping it into the water. mine is 6 years old now. As babies that are mostly insectivores and don't eat veggies but as they get older they do. thay won't start eating the food sticks until they are a couple of months old. Since thay can live until they are 36 years old make sure your commited beacuse once thayre used to you it's hard to change their behavior.
First be shure there are some tiny peables or sand or something of that nature he can eat (the reason it he needs that to help dijest food. Also keep trying the foods you are when he is hungry enough he will eat. Be shure what your feeding him is not to large, it should not be much bigger than his head. Finally try some fruits and vegtables. painted turtles eat mostly meat but they do need some plants, espesialy when they are young.
You shudnt feed im for a few days, Then give it a few plants to eat,
Give him green-leaf lettuce like romaine
Call your local vet and if you don't want to do that call your nearest zoo, who will be able to give some advise about your problem.
You might ask these guys. They know a lot about reptiles and amphibians, and I know they've raised a lot of different animals.
http://www.turtlediscovery.com
1. Baby turtles often do not eat until a week after the yolk sac is gone. in fact, feeding them early can mess them up.
2. Baby turtles are aquatic animals and the aquarium should be filled with at least several inches of water, with several rocks or branches for it to climb out on.
3. Mealworms are terrible food items for ANY reptile- the hard shell clogs the intestines.
You can learn more about caring for most American pond turtles at this site which is geared towards Red-ear sliders- but most of it works for Painteds as well:
Madkins007 nailed it. Give him a few more days before you try feeding him again, he'll eat when he's ready.
All baby turtles will not eat anything for approx 7 days after leaving the shell. Mostly your baby turtle will be looking for good hiding spots. You should have your painted turtle in a habitat that has both a place to get into water and a place that has dry land. The water should never get too cold nor too hot. Likewise, the basking spot should not get too cold nor too hot. NEVER use hot rocks. Earth worms maybe ok for adult painted but you might want to look into buying some trout size earth worms. They are more a baby turtles size. Get a log hide from your local pet store and some aquatic plants for the water side of your turtles habitat. Make sure that you have an under the gravel (I prefer large stone for aquarium habitats) filter as turtles will often make "doo" when they hit warm water. Provide a true sun light source as your baby turtle will need both UVA and UVB to grow strong and healthy.
Do not feed lettuce. There is no nutritional value.
Do feed bits of tomatoes, any kind of squash, dandylion leaves, earth worms, trout worms, and frozen blood worms.
hey, i have the same problem with a baby diamondback terrapin. if he still has a yolk sack scar, dont even try yet, because it could hurt him to eat too early. you really need to have him in a tank full of water with a turtle dock to sun on, instead of the currant set-up. anyways, they can go up to a month without eating, so give it some time.Also, they NEED to be in water to swallow. Hope he's ok!
I have a baby lizard,But do I keep it or let it go?if i keep it what do i feed it?(something around the house)
Answers:
The answer is obvious: If you don't know what kind of lizard it is, then you have no idea how to properly take care of it and it will ultimately die. So, for the lizard to have a fighting chance at surviving, you MUST let it go and fend for itself.
i would let it go because lizards are very hard creatures to take care of
Let it go outside. Lizards are good to have around the house.
Go get yourself a fish or something.
If you found it on your property, let it go. Lizards are the best thing you can have to control the bug population. If it is not indigenous to your area, give it to the animal control people or your local zoo.
roaches, ants, ladybugs, small butterflies i think you should leave him go though its not very nice to keep him . he has in-stinks so meaning he should go
ummmmmmmmmmm i hate lizards so let it go its my advice
I have a baby ball python and it has not shed. What's wrong with it?
My python also seemed to have a case of blister disease and I punctured them myself and put on some antibiotic ointment over it. however, by puncturing them i also removed some outer skin.
Answers:
Generally seen only in captive snakes, this is an illness that can most certainly be avoided through proper enclosure maintenance. When kept on dirty, moldy, and/or overly moist substrate, fluid-filled blisters may form on the underside of the snake. These are different than burn blisters, and should be correctly identified before treatment. At first only one or two may appear, but they will grow in number and can become life-threatening if it spreads to the mouth, nose, or cloaca. The best treatment is prevention: keep the substrate clean and dry, spot clean feces and urates as soon as you see them, and do thorough substrate changes regularly. One or two blisters can be treated safely at home. Sterilize a very sharp needle and gently pierce the blister. Using a clean cotton swap or bandage, absorb as much of the fluid from the blister as possible. Then, twice daily you should flush the blister and surrounding skin with hydrogen peroxide or Betadine and apply antibiotic ointment. Keep the snake in a hospital tank until healed. If there are more than a few blisters, or they extended to a delicate part of the body, an experienced herp veterinarian should be consulted for treatment.
As far as the shedding,well how old is the snake and how many times has it fed? It does not sound like it is healthy, and shedding is what a healthy GROWING snake does.
You do not say how old your baby is or what and how much you are feeding it. This is important to know as that will determine how often he will shed. Just give him time and he will shed, it is natural. My baby corns shed a week to two weeks after they are born. As for the blisters I personally have not have any snakes that had blisters but I would not open them unless you use newspaper for bedding. Anything else used as bedding could cause an infection after the blisters are opened.
I personally don't recommend opening up the blisters no matter what substrate it is on.
Vet check
Also, check the temp and humidity levels in the cage. I keep my bp around 60-65% humidity to help aid in shedding.
If you havent already, get a digital thermometer with probe and place the probe on the warm side substrate to monitor the temps. a hygrometer is very usefull too. Large water bowl kept on the warm side will help raise humidity levels.
give it time
ummmm i really dont know . but wooo hooo free points
I have many snakes, if it has blisters like you say, you sould be taking it to a vet.
Answers:
Generally seen only in captive snakes, this is an illness that can most certainly be avoided through proper enclosure maintenance. When kept on dirty, moldy, and/or overly moist substrate, fluid-filled blisters may form on the underside of the snake. These are different than burn blisters, and should be correctly identified before treatment. At first only one or two may appear, but they will grow in number and can become life-threatening if it spreads to the mouth, nose, or cloaca. The best treatment is prevention: keep the substrate clean and dry, spot clean feces and urates as soon as you see them, and do thorough substrate changes regularly. One or two blisters can be treated safely at home. Sterilize a very sharp needle and gently pierce the blister. Using a clean cotton swap or bandage, absorb as much of the fluid from the blister as possible. Then, twice daily you should flush the blister and surrounding skin with hydrogen peroxide or Betadine and apply antibiotic ointment. Keep the snake in a hospital tank until healed. If there are more than a few blisters, or they extended to a delicate part of the body, an experienced herp veterinarian should be consulted for treatment.
As far as the shedding,well how old is the snake and how many times has it fed? It does not sound like it is healthy, and shedding is what a healthy GROWING snake does.
You do not say how old your baby is or what and how much you are feeding it. This is important to know as that will determine how often he will shed. Just give him time and he will shed, it is natural. My baby corns shed a week to two weeks after they are born. As for the blisters I personally have not have any snakes that had blisters but I would not open them unless you use newspaper for bedding. Anything else used as bedding could cause an infection after the blisters are opened.
I personally don't recommend opening up the blisters no matter what substrate it is on.
Vet check
Also, check the temp and humidity levels in the cage. I keep my bp around 60-65% humidity to help aid in shedding.
If you havent already, get a digital thermometer with probe and place the probe on the warm side substrate to monitor the temps. a hygrometer is very usefull too. Large water bowl kept on the warm side will help raise humidity levels.
give it time
ummmm i really dont know . but wooo hooo free points
I have many snakes, if it has blisters like you say, you sould be taking it to a vet.
I have a 5 year old bearded dragon that doesn't appear to be able to see out of one eye. What should I do?
His eye does not look hurt. He closes it for the majority of the day. He is having troubles eating. (He misses the crickets.) He also seems much clumsier lately.
Answers:
Take it to the vet.
Can you go to the pet store and buy him some crickets? What games does he play with the crickets? I bet your dragon has fun with them! Maybe something got stuck in his eye but i so hope your dragon feels better!
Mabey he's got a 'lazy eye'. or mabey he's old . or mabey he's sick. Try doing some research on it see if you can find out!
Find a vet that specializes in reptiles and take him there. They may be able to tell if there is something that can be done for him.
Thats nice
take him to the vet or check if he has anything in his eye hes getting old
You should take it to the vet..
i would start him on polisporen drops or ointment and see if it helps Cant hurt. feed him worms which move slower
Answers:
Take it to the vet.
Can you go to the pet store and buy him some crickets? What games does he play with the crickets? I bet your dragon has fun with them! Maybe something got stuck in his eye but i so hope your dragon feels better!
Mabey he's got a 'lazy eye'. or mabey he's old . or mabey he's sick. Try doing some research on it see if you can find out!
Find a vet that specializes in reptiles and take him there. They may be able to tell if there is something that can be done for him.
Thats nice
take him to the vet or check if he has anything in his eye hes getting old
You should take it to the vet..
i would start him on polisporen drops or ointment and see if it helps Cant hurt. feed him worms which move slower
I have a 2 year old Venezuelan rainbow boa female that's not eating?
I've had her since she was 11 month's old, and this is the first time she gone without eating. I feed her every sunday at 4 pm, so her time table hasn't changed, her temperature and humidity haven't changed either. She doesn't appear to be sick, her pattern is the same, there no smells coming off her or out of her cage, she doesn't have mouth rot, she's shedding regularly. She's just not eating! She hasn't eating in two month's, so i'm beyound worried i'm getting scared! Her temperment is the same to, everything's the same with her, and her living enviroment. Could she be in hibernation? I give her fresh water every day, her house inside her cage is the right size for her, i clean her twice a week, the paper towels i use are the same brand i've always used. I buy her food at the same pet store. HELP!!
Answers:
Boas are noted to be problem feeders at times and can go several months to a year without eating. I is common for them to slow or stop eating through the winter months,
Check that your husbandry is correct, especially your temps and continue to try to feed her at least once a week until she eats, then with her age your should probably be cutting back on her feeding schedule to every 10-14 days. Here is a basic care sheet on them http://www.reptilerooms.com/sections+ind.
haha, im going through the same thing, its hibernation, with the change in weather ( if your in a winter seasoning area) they will eat alot less, theres no problem. wait till next week or a couple more and eventauly they will eat. if they dont spring isnt far away
try changing her diet offer the snake a different meall. if not buy an owl
Did she die? Maybe it is going through some illness, reptiles to get ill and when it breaks routine, then that is an indication something's not right
Snakes have an inner calendar that knows when winter is approaching - regardless of the temperature of her quarters. Snakes eat to live rather than live to eat. They do not get the enjoyment from eating that people do. When she's hungry again - closer to spring - she'll eat.
your snake is getting older and doesn't have to eat once a week any more!, but 2 moths is kind of a long time!! i feed mine once a month! may be she just isn't hungry! give her a week and try again! what do you feed it, live or dead? mine do better with live mice than dead!! i guess it's the killing instinks!:0
My snake done the same thing. He went three months without eating and it was just because he was not hungry. I fed him once a week also and he just got filled up.
i wouldn't worry about it if it does not loose any weight then its fine boas go on fasts all the time its nothing to worry about.
but if it starts losing weight then i would call a vet. a good healthy boa can go for a year without food.
Answers:
Boas are noted to be problem feeders at times and can go several months to a year without eating. I is common for them to slow or stop eating through the winter months,
Check that your husbandry is correct, especially your temps and continue to try to feed her at least once a week until she eats, then with her age your should probably be cutting back on her feeding schedule to every 10-14 days. Here is a basic care sheet on them http://www.reptilerooms.com/sections+ind.
haha, im going through the same thing, its hibernation, with the change in weather ( if your in a winter seasoning area) they will eat alot less, theres no problem. wait till next week or a couple more and eventauly they will eat. if they dont spring isnt far away
try changing her diet offer the snake a different meall. if not buy an owl
Did she die? Maybe it is going through some illness, reptiles to get ill and when it breaks routine, then that is an indication something's not right
Snakes have an inner calendar that knows when winter is approaching - regardless of the temperature of her quarters. Snakes eat to live rather than live to eat. They do not get the enjoyment from eating that people do. When she's hungry again - closer to spring - she'll eat.
your snake is getting older and doesn't have to eat once a week any more!, but 2 moths is kind of a long time!! i feed mine once a month! may be she just isn't hungry! give her a week and try again! what do you feed it, live or dead? mine do better with live mice than dead!! i guess it's the killing instinks!:0
My snake done the same thing. He went three months without eating and it was just because he was not hungry. I fed him once a week also and he just got filled up.
i wouldn't worry about it if it does not loose any weight then its fine boas go on fasts all the time its nothing to worry about.
but if it starts losing weight then i would call a vet. a good healthy boa can go for a year without food.
i have a 2 week old albino corn how many can i have in 1 tank or what other snakes can i put with her?
wanting to know if more than one corn snake can be put in same cage and if there is a certain age they have to be at to live together..also can they be put in same cage with another kind of snake and if so what kind
Answers:
Corn snakes are NOT noted to be cannibalistic or eat other snakes. It is possible to house two corn snake together %26 I have a pair that have lived together for 5yrs. now with no mishaps. Just make sure that the enclosure is large enough to provide a couple secure hiding spots %26 with appropriate warm %26 cooler spots for the snakes, so as not to stress them or cause competition for only one secure spot.
You can house them with rat snakes, garter snakes just to name a few.
NEVER house any 2 snakes together, except during breeding. Snakes are solitary animals and forcing them to live together which causes stress, and stress in turn causes feeding, shedding and health problems. Also, snakes have been known to eat each other. Just don't do it.
Corn snakes can be housed with other corn snakes of similar size, so long as they are seperated for feeding.
Never mix species together, milk snakes and king snakes will eat other snakes.
Male and female snakes should be housed seperatley.
After wintering your snakes at cooler temperatures the two sexes can be put together for mating. Please get some advice about breeding these snakes before you proceed with breeding.
Corn snakes are not snake eaters and can be kept more than one together. They are wonderful tame snakes that eat small rodents in the wild and in captivity.
you cannot put ANY other snakes in with the corn snake. Corn snakes eat other snakes and thus won't get along at all. their favorite food is snakes and lizard although I feed mine rat pups.Try to get mmore information on your pet in order to give it the care it needs. www.stormpages.com/dracoslair/.
check out this site it is very helpful and has a lot of tips to keep your snake happy.
to all the thumbs down.what did I do to you? just curious what's so bad about this answer, by the way I've had a corn snake for 3 years now.
You have an IMMEDIATE problem. You have a 2 week old snake. I know your not a breeder, because if you were, you would know the answer to that question. However, your snake has about an 90% death rate right now. Good luck. Make sure she stays really warm, and is in ASPEN bedding. OH MY, who ever sold you a 2 week old snake needs to be reported. I cant believe this. You should have done researgh PRIOR to getting the snake.
Answers:
Corn snakes are NOT noted to be cannibalistic or eat other snakes. It is possible to house two corn snake together %26 I have a pair that have lived together for 5yrs. now with no mishaps. Just make sure that the enclosure is large enough to provide a couple secure hiding spots %26 with appropriate warm %26 cooler spots for the snakes, so as not to stress them or cause competition for only one secure spot.
You can house them with rat snakes, garter snakes just to name a few.
NEVER house any 2 snakes together, except during breeding. Snakes are solitary animals and forcing them to live together which causes stress, and stress in turn causes feeding, shedding and health problems. Also, snakes have been known to eat each other. Just don't do it.
Corn snakes can be housed with other corn snakes of similar size, so long as they are seperated for feeding.
Never mix species together, milk snakes and king snakes will eat other snakes.
Male and female snakes should be housed seperatley.
After wintering your snakes at cooler temperatures the two sexes can be put together for mating. Please get some advice about breeding these snakes before you proceed with breeding.
Corn snakes are not snake eaters and can be kept more than one together. They are wonderful tame snakes that eat small rodents in the wild and in captivity.
you cannot put ANY other snakes in with the corn snake. Corn snakes eat other snakes and thus won't get along at all. their favorite food is snakes and lizard although I feed mine rat pups.Try to get mmore information on your pet in order to give it the care it needs. www.stormpages.com/dracoslair/.
check out this site it is very helpful and has a lot of tips to keep your snake happy.
to all the thumbs down.what did I do to you? just curious what's so bad about this answer, by the way I've had a corn snake for 3 years now.
You have an IMMEDIATE problem. You have a 2 week old snake. I know your not a breeder, because if you were, you would know the answer to that question. However, your snake has about an 90% death rate right now. Good luck. Make sure she stays really warm, and is in ASPEN bedding. OH MY, who ever sold you a 2 week old snake needs to be reported. I cant believe this. You should have done researgh PRIOR to getting the snake.
i have a 2 month old whip snake and i dont know how 2 tame it. i had a bigger 1 before and it was very tame?
Answers:
I don't know why these people say to release all wild captured snakes. When I started collecting herps, there was no other way to obtain specimens, other than to capture them. Unless you're dealing with endangered species, there's nothing wrong with taking specimens from the wild. One major advantage is that if the snake will not feed or you no longer want it, you can always release it where you found it %26 regardless of what these "experts" tell you, these snakes have no difficulty resuming their "wild" life. The other is, they're free to acquire. The only thing I will agree with these "experts" on is that you need to handle your snake on a regular basis to establish a feeling of security. The snake will become familiar with your touch %26 scent and be less likely to bite or be skittish.
Well if it was wild caught i would let it go. But if you reall y want to keep it you have to work with it. Handel it as much as possible no fast movements. You have to show the snake that your not going to eat it or harm it. It will take time but just keep working with it. Good luck
You have to keep handling it .If it is biting you try wearing gloves.Handle it at least 1hr a day. After a few good handlings it should settle down a good bit.
I have a 15 foot albino burmese pyton that we are willing to give to someone that will take care of him?
Answers:
If you are in the UK contact me and I may be able to help rehoming this fabulous animals. I have 12 foot male normal burmese and he is so soft it is untrue.
please check carefully that who ever it is knows what they are doing and will take good care of it .
I would love to have it .but i am too far away
http://spaces.msn.com/byderule
Check your local zoo .. they may accept it as a donation.
Make sure whoever you give it to knows how to care for it properly.
I would love to add him to my menagerie, but I'm sure we're not even remotely close to each other. I've wanted an albino burm for a while. Is he/she sweet tempered? What have you been feeding it? Just curious. I've got nine snakes already, but the elementary schools that I take my snake show too would LOVE to see a big guy like that.
do you live in southern california? if you do, or even if you don't look up prehistoric pets. it's a store(huge) where they specialize in large snakes and exotic herps. they have tons of huge snakes and know how to take care of them and keep them healthy. if you can't take it there, try contacting your local zoo, i am sure they would be glad to take such a beautiful snake. hope this helps!
Would you please contact me regarding your snake. We have experience with large snakes and have the room and resources to care for him. We have had burmese as large as 17 feet and currently have several that are 12-15 feet .
My husband and I have rescued unwanted reptiles(mostly snakes) and have even driven up to 1000 miles to pick them up from their owners.
We have the proper caging for a snake this large and can give him a forever home. We have weekly access to rabbit and chicken farmers so feeding is definitely not a problem.
We are located in N/W Alabama.
You can email me through here. Or at jensfunnyfarm2@aim.com
Good Luck!
I would love to take in a pythone ship it through ups mail to 34233 mainstreet covert MI
i have a 12 foot boa thats to big for me ive had him from young, how much is he worth,were could i sell him.?
good places only im not trying to feed anyone
Answers:
get a copy of Reptile magazine, in the back they list all the upcoming shows and expos, there you would find all the locals and breeders in your area and you could probably find a buyer
might try a show or convention, but truthfully, unless the person is a BIG reptile lover, about the only home you might be able to find for that big a snake would be a zoo.
You could try selling him on http://www.kingsnake.com (this site also lists upcoming shows and events) or http://www.faunaclassifieds.com.
You can also try running an ad in your local paper.
Being that it is a male it will be harder to sell and unfortunately they are also not worth much money. Maybe $300 at the most,
Are you certain it is a male ?( has he ever been probed?) That is quite large for a male boa.
Good Luck!
if it realy is 12 feet long and your not exagorateing then its probrbaly a female.
your local reptile shop will probrbaly take him.
No one is gonna want to buy a 12 foot boa from you if he is really 12 feet. Your best bet is to find a good home of a avid snake lover and just give it away.
Your best bet is to put him up for adoption. That way you will find him a loving home with an experienced reptile keeper. Check out http://www.forgottenfriend.org/.
12 foot.hes worth about $15 a foot
PEOPLE DON'T WANT BIG SNAKES ,THATS WHY YOU FIND THEM CRAWLING FREE,PEOPLE ARE JUST DUMPING THEM JUST TO GET RID OF THEM.JUST LIKE YOU ARE DOING NOW!!
a sensible price would be 拢300-500
Answers:
get a copy of Reptile magazine, in the back they list all the upcoming shows and expos, there you would find all the locals and breeders in your area and you could probably find a buyer
might try a show or convention, but truthfully, unless the person is a BIG reptile lover, about the only home you might be able to find for that big a snake would be a zoo.
You could try selling him on http://www.kingsnake.com (this site also lists upcoming shows and events) or http://www.faunaclassifieds.com.
You can also try running an ad in your local paper.
Being that it is a male it will be harder to sell and unfortunately they are also not worth much money. Maybe $300 at the most,
Are you certain it is a male ?( has he ever been probed?) That is quite large for a male boa.
Good Luck!
if it realy is 12 feet long and your not exagorateing then its probrbaly a female.
your local reptile shop will probrbaly take him.
No one is gonna want to buy a 12 foot boa from you if he is really 12 feet. Your best bet is to find a good home of a avid snake lover and just give it away.
Your best bet is to put him up for adoption. That way you will find him a loving home with an experienced reptile keeper. Check out http://www.forgottenfriend.org/.
12 foot.hes worth about $15 a foot
PEOPLE DON'T WANT BIG SNAKES ,THATS WHY YOU FIND THEM CRAWLING FREE,PEOPLE ARE JUST DUMPING THEM JUST TO GET RID OF THEM.JUST LIKE YOU ARE DOING NOW!!
a sensible price would be 拢300-500
I have a brand new teeny baby corn snake (born Sunday). When can I feed it and what? It seems hungary.?
Ive heard that I have to wait for its' first shed. Is this true? It's drinking water just fine.
Answers:
Some snakes will eat before their first shed. I wont hurt him to wait. You should be feeding him up to 2 newborn pinky mice per week. The food item should be as big or a little bit bigger then the snakes widest point. Here is a good care sheet that explains corn snake care http://www.anapsid.org/corn.html.
feed it corn (duh)
A few weeks. The best to start out with is pinky mice. The smaller the better. Good luck!
Get him new baby rats, w/o hair.
mice very big juice mice tender crunchy mice's
Wait for its first shed..if a whole week goes by without it shedding than feed him anyway and then like every 5 days after that.
Wait until your baby has its first shed than one or two days after feed your baby a live pinky mouse.
You can offer it food now but you have to make sure the pinky is small enough to eat. A lot of breeders wait to sell their hatchlings after a shed and then after they eat. Your snake, after it pips out of it's egg finished it's yolk before it fully emerged so yeah, it might be hungry now.
Answers:
Some snakes will eat before their first shed. I wont hurt him to wait. You should be feeding him up to 2 newborn pinky mice per week. The food item should be as big or a little bit bigger then the snakes widest point. Here is a good care sheet that explains corn snake care http://www.anapsid.org/corn.html.
feed it corn (duh)
A few weeks. The best to start out with is pinky mice. The smaller the better. Good luck!
Get him new baby rats, w/o hair.
mice very big juice mice tender crunchy mice's
Wait for its first shed..if a whole week goes by without it shedding than feed him anyway and then like every 5 days after that.
Wait until your baby has its first shed than one or two days after feed your baby a live pinky mouse.
You can offer it food now but you have to make sure the pinky is small enough to eat. A lot of breeders wait to sell their hatchlings after a shed and then after they eat. Your snake, after it pips out of it's egg finished it's yolk before it fully emerged so yeah, it might be hungry now.
I have 9 turtles..please read?
i have a variety of turtles(10 total). they range from red eared sliders to painted box turtles, a soft shell turtle, river musks and an african box turtle. my question is do any of those turtles change there sex once they mate with another turtle? ive noticed that since one of the three red eared sliders mated with another turtle the other two which are males try to mate with that one inparticular. is it just the red eared sliders or do all turtles change sex after they mate?
Answers:
the two turtles most probably smell the female on that particular male, and therefor think it is a female, but no turtles don't change their sexes, sorry dude maybe they are even gay
No, turtles cannot change their sex. You probably have made a mistake sexing them.
Do you have a turtle head popping out?
I only know that normal land turtles (the usual kind) don't change sex. I don't know any details about your kinds.
i dunnno thanks for 2 points! bye!
Turtles are not known to be able to change sex once hatched.
Young turtles can be very tricky to properly sex so it is likely that earlier estimates of sex were inaccurate.
Some questions:
1. There are no such things as 'painted box turtles' or 'African box turtles'. The African box is probably one of the Asian box turtles (Cuora species). The 'painted box' is probably either a Painted turtle or a true Box turtle. If this is a typo, no problem, but if someone told you this is what they were you NEED to get them ID'ed right so you can give them the right care- Asian boxes, painted turtles and American boxes all need VERY different kinds of care and habitats.
2. I hope these are not all in one tank. For one thing, it would have to be a HUGE tank (figure 10 gallons of swimming water per inch of turtle. With 10 turtles an average of 4" long, you'd need 400 gallons of water!)
3. Further, some of these guys will not do well together in the long run. Softshells get shell fungi easily, want sandy bottoms and shallow water. American box turtles want dry land, while some Asian boxes want land, others want water, and some need lots of both.
Try some of these sites to help clear things up:
Answers:
the two turtles most probably smell the female on that particular male, and therefor think it is a female, but no turtles don't change their sexes, sorry dude maybe they are even gay
No, turtles cannot change their sex. You probably have made a mistake sexing them.
Do you have a turtle head popping out?
I only know that normal land turtles (the usual kind) don't change sex. I don't know any details about your kinds.
i dunnno thanks for 2 points! bye!
Turtles are not known to be able to change sex once hatched.
Young turtles can be very tricky to properly sex so it is likely that earlier estimates of sex were inaccurate.
Some questions:
1. There are no such things as 'painted box turtles' or 'African box turtles'. The African box is probably one of the Asian box turtles (Cuora species). The 'painted box' is probably either a Painted turtle or a true Box turtle. If this is a typo, no problem, but if someone told you this is what they were you NEED to get them ID'ed right so you can give them the right care- Asian boxes, painted turtles and American boxes all need VERY different kinds of care and habitats.
2. I hope these are not all in one tank. For one thing, it would have to be a HUGE tank (figure 10 gallons of swimming water per inch of turtle. With 10 turtles an average of 4" long, you'd need 400 gallons of water!)
3. Further, some of these guys will not do well together in the long run. Softshells get shell fungi easily, want sandy bottoms and shallow water. American box turtles want dry land, while some Asian boxes want land, others want water, and some need lots of both.
Try some of these sites to help clear things up:
I have 7 turtles as pets that i just recieved, any ideas for funny names for them?
Answers:
Michelle 1, Michelle 2 etc
Name them after your mates. use nicknames.
Call them whatever you like they won't understand or reply.
you can name one of them stinky or somthing?
speedy
Name them after the 7 Dwarfs:
Sleepy, Sneezy, Dopey, Grumpy, Happy, Bashful and Doc
One funny name could be
Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday
If you are into movies, You can name them from the movie "The Magnificent Seven" or for the matter why not from "Seven Samurai"
Do you have a picture of them somewhere where we can see all of them :)
Scooter, Spike, Spot,that's only three you hav to come up with the other ones
1. KAYLA 2. KAYLA 3.KAYLA 4.KAYLA 5.KAYLA 6. and KAYLA
thats the best name in the world!
Aleksandr Nikolai
Ashley
Baby Precious
Baxter
Beans
Ben
Bertus
Big Mama
Billie
Bismark
Blastoise
Bobert
Boggy
Bonnie
Brasen Lake
Bubba
Bubbles
Buddy
Cake
Cecile
Charlie
Checkers
Cheek
Cheese
Chelsea
Chizewer
Clancy
Clifford
Clyde
Crush
Cujo
Cup
Da Tank
Dedra
Delores
Donatello
Dory
Dude
Duncan
Egbert
Einstein
Elmer
Ernesto
Felix
Fergie
Filbert
Fraidie Water
Frankie
Franklin
Fred
Frog
George
Goofy
Gretta
Gus
Hailie
Herbert
Honor
Hunter X
Iberia
Iggy
Ione
Itty Bitty Angel
Ity Bity
Izzy
Jade Orkid
Jackpot
Janet
Jaydn Savannah
Jenna
Jessica
Joeyson
Jose
Julliet
Junior
Justice
Keegan Xavier
Kelly
Kenia
Knobby
Lady Treptova
Lancalot
Leonardo
Lilly
Lil' Rocky
Little Girl
Lizzy
Lloyd in Water Banks (Lloyd for short)
Lucifer
Lucky Bug
Mary-Kate
Mervin
Micah
Michaelangelo
Milo
Mossimo (Moe-si-moe)
Mr.
option 1/ name them after the days of the week.
option 2/ nicky, vicky, ricky, micky, hicky, dicky and lou!
option 3/ T1, T2, T3, T4, T5, T6, T7.
option 4/ just call them all the same name..goodness knows how are you going to tell them apart? :).
Aleksandr Nikolai
Ashley
Baby Precious
Baxter
Beans
Ben
Bertus
Big Mama
Billie
Bismark
Blastoise
Bobert
Boggy
Bonnie
Brasen Lake
Bubba
Bubbles
Buddy
Cake
Cecile
Charlie
Checkers
Cheek
Cheese
Chelsea
Chizewer
Clancy
Clifford
Clyde
Crush
Cujo
Cup
Da Tank
Dedra
Delores
Donatello
Dory
Dude
Duncan
Egbert
Einstein
Elmer
Ernesto
Felix
Fergie
Filbert
Fraidie Water
Frankie
Franklin
Fred
Frog
George
Goofy
Gretta
Gus
Hailie
Herbert
Honor
Hunter X
Iberia
Iggy
Ione
Itty Bitty Angel
Ity Bity
Izzy
Jade Orkid
Jackpot
Janet
Jaydn Savannah
Jenna
Jessica
Joeyson
Jose
Julliet
Junior
Justice
Keegan Xavier
Kelly
Kenia
Knobby
Lady Treptova
Lancalot
Leonardo
Lilly
Lil' Rocky
Little Girl
Lizzy
Lloyd in Water Banks (Lloyd for short)
Lucifer
Lucky Bug
Mary-Kate
Mervin
Micah
Michaelangelo
Milo
Mossimo (Moe-si-moe)
Mr.
Jumbo
lumbo
frand
monsier
dragon
big guy
big green
Well for starters, you could name some of them after the Ninja Turtles! As for the other 3..Timothy Traddle, Slow Poke, and Shelly:)
my daughter named one of our females - shellsha
norice
i have 2 water dragons, need to no what other type lizards i can keep together with them?
Answers:
Generally, it's better to keep species separate. Especially lizards. Lizards are not domesticated at all, so think back to how they would be in the wild. They never share territory with any other lizard species, they see them as either predators, prey or rivals for food, and space.
There are also heat, humidity, food and light to consider. Each species will have different habitat requirements that must be met for optimum health.
There are also sickness that could potentially pass back and forth, which is bad news.
Unless you are thinking of doing something on the scale of a zoo exhibit, with acres of land, waterfalls and everything, where you are recreating the ENTIRE habitat and it's inhabitants, then, keep the species in separate enclosures.
Good Luck
It is always best to keep lizards seperate from each other but in the right enclosure.preferably a very large one, i have kept chinese water dragons with other tropical lizards. Although not from Asia, as your water dragon is (unless it is the Austrailian species, but those are not as common), you can keep them with basilisk species as these have very similar requirements. They are all arboreal (climb trees).It would be a better idea to keep some species that are terrestrial ( live on the ground) if the cage has enough room..make sure the species is not too much larger or smaller since water dragons will eat smaller lizards. I have kept basilisks, sailfin dragons, and green iguanas with water dragons but all lizards are different and stress out easily, not to mention they can spead disease quickly to each other, so monitor them and dont take any chances stressing your pet to death!
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