I will pay for it myself and look after it, but i need permission first, and need her to phone and order it!
Answers:
this is not something you should jump into. I surfed the internet for months gathering info before I purchased 2 red-ear slider turtles. They need a lot of room, heat, and special foods. They need their habitat to be very clean. You need to ask yourself if you can afford the accessories you will need to keep your tortoise healthy. They would not make the best pet. He will not interact with you. Ask yourself why do I want a tortoise? Maybe you would be better off getting a traditional pet like a bird, cat, or dog. They are easier to care for and your local vet would be able to take care of any issues that would come up. You need to show your Mom you are responsible and ready for the committment. Think twice - get a cat or dog!
I always worry a bit about tortoises for kids. I'm guessing you are about 12-14 years old (forgive me if I am a bit wrong!).
Here is the deal. Tortoises with proper care can live 30-50 years. You'll be around 45 when it is in its old age.
Between now and then, you'll
- finish school
- start college
- finish college
- get married
- have kids
- see those kids go to school
- see your kids graduate college
- move 2 or 3 times
- change your mind about everything from your favorite food to your style of music.
. and through it all, you will need to be taking care of the tortoise day in and day out.
I would convince mum by showing your skills and dedication on an easier pet, perhaps a pet rat. Build mum's confidence in you step by step.
Monday, May 24, 2010
I want a pet snake. Are they hard to take care of?
What sort of care do they need? What are some good, small, harmless breeds? I like snakes!
Answers:
Snakes are the best! pets you can own. All they need as young pets are a ten gallon tank, a secure lid, some newspaper on the bottom and an under tank heater (depending on where you live you need to keep the tank around 80 degrees so you might need a clamp lamp to keep him warmer. Put something he can hide under, kleenex box, or any old box and a water bowl and he is happy! Feed him pinkies once a week (unless you go for the ball python) and hold him and love him and he will be a happy happy camper.
Small and harmless, eh?
Propbably a plain old garter snake
eat worms and what not.
i had one
yes
No. Everything you need is love.
Depends on the snake. Why don't you contact these guys? They know a lot about reptiles.
http://www.turtlediscovery.com
Corn snakes are the best beginner snakes, they are easy to take care of and get hold of and can become very tame.
Just thought i would add in that ball pythons have teeth, they do get quite big and are chunky besides, most people will tell you they are NOT good beginner snakes.
Get a ball python they don't get that big they are very friendly only need fead once every 1-2 weeks, they are perfect begginer snakes.
snake? are you sure? it isn't a fish or a dog..
i think a captive bred ball python makes a great pet
Wow, a previous poster stated that Ball Pythons have teeth. What a revelation, especially since ALL snakes have teeth except for the egg-eating snake.
Anyway, some of the more common and best beginner snakes are corn snakes, milk snakes, Ball Pythons. Ball Pythons are great if you want a larger snake that is docile, yet they do need a little bit more attention as far as how they are housed and their heating requirements.
All snakes can get by with much less attention than most other pets. They require a secure cage, heat, fresh water, and food once a week to once a month depending on the age of the snake. They don't need to be handled very much, but they will be more calm and used to you if you handle them for a few minutes a couple times a week. Also, adequate humidity is important during their shed cycle.
I think that ball pythons are a really good small breed, grow to just over 2 feet long. Here are a few sites that are good for learning about them
Hello,
All snakes have teeth. Your goal for your first snake is to get one that is known for a good disposition. And for this regardless of what an above poster said a Ball Python is actually a great first snake because they are known as calm. You mentioned small and Ball pythons will eventually obtain 5 feet in length. There are MANY snakes that will not get this big and are still known for having a calm nature. Corn snakes are good as well as garter snakes and I have had great experience with gopher snakes. I used to catch (and release) them in the wild and they never tried to bite me. King snakes can also be great but i have met some that were more agressive than others. If you got a small juevenile then you could end up with a trustworthy snake.
Bottom line do your research and have all the supplies ready before the snake comes home.
All the snakes mentioned will start out on a diet of pinkies or for the ball small mice. The garter snake however will eat goldfish and amphibians.
corn snake buy a fish tank and put newspaper under it buy a dog bowl cut a hole and then that will be its house trust me on this then all you have to do is change the newspaper
Answers:
Snakes are the best! pets you can own. All they need as young pets are a ten gallon tank, a secure lid, some newspaper on the bottom and an under tank heater (depending on where you live you need to keep the tank around 80 degrees so you might need a clamp lamp to keep him warmer. Put something he can hide under, kleenex box, or any old box and a water bowl and he is happy! Feed him pinkies once a week (unless you go for the ball python) and hold him and love him and he will be a happy happy camper.
Small and harmless, eh?
Propbably a plain old garter snake
eat worms and what not.
i had one
yes
No. Everything you need is love.
Depends on the snake. Why don't you contact these guys? They know a lot about reptiles.
http://www.turtlediscovery.com
Corn snakes are the best beginner snakes, they are easy to take care of and get hold of and can become very tame.
Just thought i would add in that ball pythons have teeth, they do get quite big and are chunky besides, most people will tell you they are NOT good beginner snakes.
Get a ball python they don't get that big they are very friendly only need fead once every 1-2 weeks, they are perfect begginer snakes.
snake? are you sure? it isn't a fish or a dog..
i think a captive bred ball python makes a great pet
Wow, a previous poster stated that Ball Pythons have teeth. What a revelation, especially since ALL snakes have teeth except for the egg-eating snake.
Anyway, some of the more common and best beginner snakes are corn snakes, milk snakes, Ball Pythons. Ball Pythons are great if you want a larger snake that is docile, yet they do need a little bit more attention as far as how they are housed and their heating requirements.
All snakes can get by with much less attention than most other pets. They require a secure cage, heat, fresh water, and food once a week to once a month depending on the age of the snake. They don't need to be handled very much, but they will be more calm and used to you if you handle them for a few minutes a couple times a week. Also, adequate humidity is important during their shed cycle.
I think that ball pythons are a really good small breed, grow to just over 2 feet long. Here are a few sites that are good for learning about them
Hello,
All snakes have teeth. Your goal for your first snake is to get one that is known for a good disposition. And for this regardless of what an above poster said a Ball Python is actually a great first snake because they are known as calm. You mentioned small and Ball pythons will eventually obtain 5 feet in length. There are MANY snakes that will not get this big and are still known for having a calm nature. Corn snakes are good as well as garter snakes and I have had great experience with gopher snakes. I used to catch (and release) them in the wild and they never tried to bite me. King snakes can also be great but i have met some that were more agressive than others. If you got a small juevenile then you could end up with a trustworthy snake.
Bottom line do your research and have all the supplies ready before the snake comes home.
All the snakes mentioned will start out on a diet of pinkies or for the ball small mice. The garter snake however will eat goldfish and amphibians.
corn snake buy a fish tank and put newspaper under it buy a dog bowl cut a hole and then that will be its house trust me on this then all you have to do is change the newspaper
I want a corn snake?
i heard good things about the corn snake. they are not poisenous they get calmer then they age, they like to be handled and played with, and they can grow up to 4 or 5 feet.
the thing is how big of a cage does it need? can i put him in one of those glass hamster cage?
when i 1st get the snake how do i tame it to not bite me bcuz i would like to play with it.
how much do they cost? and how much do u think it will cost to care for it? how much will it cost monthly.
thx for answering
Answers:
Corn snakes are I great. I have one, among four other snakes. A large glass aquariam will do ok. A 20 gallon size or so. You will need a locking lid of some sort. Ventilation is important. You will need good substrate that won't aggrivate the lungs, heat lamp, hiding caves, and another heat source, such as an under tank heater (which is what i use and love). They stick to the bottom of the tank and provide a warm bed. However, i suggest sticking it to a piece of tinfoil rather than the tank itself and then taping it to the tank so you can still move the heater without damaging it since they glue is super adhesive. I am fairly knowlegdeable in the snake area, so you can contact me if you need.
http://www.anapsid.org/corn.html.
that site will tell you all you need to know. if you have any other questions, IM me.
ivyrakestraw on yahoo messenger.
chek out www.repticzone.com, and go to the snakes forum, u can talk to people that own them.and find out everything u need to kno from regular people like u and me. its the best site ever.
NO! Never put a snake in a glass hamster cage.. it needs something more secure.. and depending on the size it needs more space than a hamster, and it needs this light thing which keeps it warm. That's the only question I can answer at the moment.
so get 1
140 dollars. By off snake zoos
A corn snake needs a 20-gallon aquarium or equivalent, and bigger is better. Mine is in a 29. You need to set it up so it is room temperature on one end, warmer (for basking) on the other. This will require a basking light and a heating strip. (yes, both, and a timer for the light) Don't forget to provide multiple shelters so the snake has a choice of lairs, and can pick a warmer or cooler one as needed.
NO snake likes to be handled, let alone played with. They will tolerate being handled, but for a snake, that still pushes a lot of the "predator attacking me!" buttons, and it stresses them. And playing with them is right out -- they are live animals, not toys.
A good corn snake (get a yearling, not a baby, for your first snake) will cost you $50-$100 (US), depending on where you buy it. Fancy colors can go for, well, as much money as you have. Snake, cage, cage furnishings, etc., together will cost you in the $200-$300 range. One of the items you should buy is a good book on corn snakes.
A couple I would recommend:
Corn Snakes: The Comprehensive Owner's Guide (Bill %26 Kathy Love)
Corn Snakes %26 Other Rat Snakes (Patricia %26 R.D. Bartlett)
Read the book BEFORE you commit to getting a snake! Remember, corn snakes can live for 20+ years; this is a major commitment on your part.
hey - put it in the microwave and you can have a pop corn snake
corn snakes are really cool. The ones I had were very active, but they were escape artists. Get a critter cage. Looks like an aquarium, but comes with a built on screen lid that snaps shut and locks. I currently have two Boas, one large and one small, and a lucistic texas rat snake. Critter cages have worked great with them, but how big depends on the size of the snake. They are active,and need space to move around good. Good luck with your corn snake!
the thing is how big of a cage does it need? can i put him in one of those glass hamster cage?
when i 1st get the snake how do i tame it to not bite me bcuz i would like to play with it.
how much do they cost? and how much do u think it will cost to care for it? how much will it cost monthly.
thx for answering
Answers:
Corn snakes are I great. I have one, among four other snakes. A large glass aquariam will do ok. A 20 gallon size or so. You will need a locking lid of some sort. Ventilation is important. You will need good substrate that won't aggrivate the lungs, heat lamp, hiding caves, and another heat source, such as an under tank heater (which is what i use and love). They stick to the bottom of the tank and provide a warm bed. However, i suggest sticking it to a piece of tinfoil rather than the tank itself and then taping it to the tank so you can still move the heater without damaging it since they glue is super adhesive. I am fairly knowlegdeable in the snake area, so you can contact me if you need.
http://www.anapsid.org/corn.html.
that site will tell you all you need to know. if you have any other questions, IM me.
ivyrakestraw on yahoo messenger.
chek out www.repticzone.com, and go to the snakes forum, u can talk to people that own them.and find out everything u need to kno from regular people like u and me. its the best site ever.
NO! Never put a snake in a glass hamster cage.. it needs something more secure.. and depending on the size it needs more space than a hamster, and it needs this light thing which keeps it warm. That's the only question I can answer at the moment.
so get 1
140 dollars. By off snake zoos
A corn snake needs a 20-gallon aquarium or equivalent, and bigger is better. Mine is in a 29. You need to set it up so it is room temperature on one end, warmer (for basking) on the other. This will require a basking light and a heating strip. (yes, both, and a timer for the light) Don't forget to provide multiple shelters so the snake has a choice of lairs, and can pick a warmer or cooler one as needed.
NO snake likes to be handled, let alone played with. They will tolerate being handled, but for a snake, that still pushes a lot of the "predator attacking me!" buttons, and it stresses them. And playing with them is right out -- they are live animals, not toys.
A good corn snake (get a yearling, not a baby, for your first snake) will cost you $50-$100 (US), depending on where you buy it. Fancy colors can go for, well, as much money as you have. Snake, cage, cage furnishings, etc., together will cost you in the $200-$300 range. One of the items you should buy is a good book on corn snakes.
A couple I would recommend:
Corn Snakes: The Comprehensive Owner's Guide (Bill %26 Kathy Love)
Corn Snakes %26 Other Rat Snakes (Patricia %26 R.D. Bartlett)
Read the book BEFORE you commit to getting a snake! Remember, corn snakes can live for 20+ years; this is a major commitment on your part.
hey - put it in the microwave and you can have a pop corn snake
corn snakes are really cool. The ones I had were very active, but they were escape artists. Get a critter cage. Looks like an aquarium, but comes with a built on screen lid that snaps shut and locks. I currently have two Boas, one large and one small, and a lucistic texas rat snake. Critter cages have worked great with them, but how big depends on the size of the snake. They are active,and need space to move around good. Good luck with your corn snake!
I want a big 20+lb lizard. What kind should I look for and how much is it gonna cost me?
Answers:
Tegu! Argentine black and whites are supposed to be VERY docile (almost dog tame) and get larger, while red/blue tegus are smaller and still tame. If you get one of them, they're usually 1-300-ish bucks, and eventually need a LARGE (8 foot minimum) custom built enclosure when grown, so it'd end up being very expensive, but worth it!
iguanas are as cheap as 10 bucks each and get huge
well, if you call Bigfoot a lizard, check out my question, there is good info
I don't know specific kinds of lizards. As to what it will cost you..is that the initial cost or the cost to have your hand re-attached after he bites it off?
I would recommend a savannah monitor, or a water monitor. Larger monitors, including the water, can be difficult to handle. Large monitors are not cuddley and they can be unpredictable and dangerous. They not only bite when threatened they also attack raking with their extrememly long sharp claws. Keep this in mind, many people have been seriously injured by large monitors. If you really must have a big one, go for a water, they are very docile and placid if handled often from when they hatch.
A savanna Monitor would be the best choice if you get it as a baby and handle it a lot. It can become very tame even dog-like. If need more info on it let me know. Much better than a iguana. You can get a baby for $50 or even less
I sincerely hope you are kidding. The world is full of people who get pets on a whim and know nothing about them. Properly caring for a reptile is expensive. They need tons of special care and some need UVB lighting. Why torture an animal because you think it might be cool? AND.. large reptiles are dangerous, especially an improperly cared for monitor (which can grow up to six feet in length).
An alligator might fill the bill.
Red Tegus awesome color and nice and thick maybe $250
You're looking for a water monitor, maybe a croc monitor. Either one is notoroius for being mean though. Price range is anywhere from $180-$800, depending on size, coloration, etc. That's just for the animal. Roughly $150-$200 for the set up, and you gotta remember what these things eat, whole animals. Water can eat whole live chickens, so feeding gets kind of expensive.
get a monitor, look up prehistoric pets on the internet, they'll tell you everything
U should start off with a baby iguana and it will get about 20+lbs! A baby will cost u bout 15$-25$!check the local rescue groups in ur area.
i want a BeardedDrangon but wat do i feed them i dont wanna do mice. do they grow big so there hard 2 care 4.?
somone told me that there tooken from the wild and kept in filthly tanks and grow so big like iguannas that you have 2 let them go? what do i use the keep them wat do i feed them. how much money are they.
Answers:
No they are not taken from the wild. They are captive bred. Most only reach around 16-22" in full length. Some may reach up to 25". Usually the larger dragons are german giants or have german giant in their bloodline though. They are a little on the expensive side. Don't feed them any kind of mice, like pinkies. They contain parasites, are extremely hard for beardies to digest and have poor nutritional value, except they're loaded in fat. It's best you stay away from pinkies. Feed crickets, silkworms, or lobster roaches as there staple (everyday diet) and waxworms, superworms, pheonix worms, and butter worms as treats only. 1 or 2 a week. Sometimes, dragons will get "addicted" to fatty foods like treat worms and wont eat nothing else and gain a whole bunch of weight in the process.
Babies/juveniles are to eat atleast 3 times a day, as many as they can eat in 15 minutes. This can easily add up anywhere between 30-100 crickets per day. Adults only need about 30 max per week.
You'll need reptile multivitamins and calcium supplements (like Repcal's calcium and Repcal's Reptivite for example) to dust crickets and sprinkle greens. For babies and juveniles, dust their crickets with calcium 6 times a week and vitamins 3 or 4 times a week. For adults, dust their crickets 4 times a week with calcium and 2 or 3 times a week with vitamins. I feed my adults 4 crickets a day in the evening (so they'll eat greens during the day). You can buy spray supplements for adults to spray on their greens if they don't like the dust on their greens if needed.
For feeding greens, check out this page: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.co. for a color coded food chart. The foods typed in green can be fed everyday (as a staple). The foods typed in black can be used as treats only. Please watch out for off Ca:P ratios (calcium to phosphorus ratios) and oxalate acid when feeding your dragon. Phosphorus and oxalate acid binds calcium.so your dragon may not be getting the right calcium he needs. Read the whole page if you can. It will greatly help you understand better than I can explain.
You can order crickets in bulk. I buy mine through the pet store. I get 1,000 crickets for $20. There are lots of sites on the web you can buy crickets from.
You also need a UVB light. UVB rays help them obsorbe calcium for proper growth and bone stucture. Beardies deprived from UVB rays will suffer from metabolic bone disease. Get a tube UVB light (not the screw in socket kind) and the bulb needs to be atleast an 8.0 (8% of UVB). Reptisun 5.0's are ok since they are equal to a Reptiglo 8.0. The UVB bulb needs to be changed ever six months. www.lllreptile.com has reptisun 10.0's (highly recommended bulb) for about $22. From what I understand, they are usually around $40 since they put out more UVB than any other flourcent bulb in the market. A Reptiglo 8.0 and other UVB bulbs run about $20-25 depending on where you buy from.
You also need a heat light. Regular household bulbs work good and are cheap. You do not need the expensive UVA basking spot lights from the pet store. You can also use halogen bulbs and indoor flood lights. Basking temps for babies need to be around 110. Juveniles basking temps can range between 105-110, and for adults 100-105. Measure your temps with a digital thermometer with probe. They measure surface temp, not air temp. You need to measure surface temps when you check. basking temps. Wal-mart has digital thermometers with probe for about $8. The little round ones at the pet store can be as much as 20 degrees off and measure air temp. Air temp can be as much as 20 degrees below surface temp. Place the sensor of the probe where ever you want to read temps.
You also need substrate (bedding). Do not use sand. Calci sand, childrens play sand, etc all holds a risk of impation and killing your dragon. Walnut shells, repti bark, etc can tear up the dragons intestines when ingested. All loose particle substrates hold in moisture which harbors bacteria.and isn't good for your reptile. Go to Lowes or Home Depot or another store like that and get some ceramic tiles. They look awesome in cages and are easy to clean. They're a lot cheaper than a few bags of shell or sand too..and you don't need to change tiles unless you are simply tierd of the design. I got my pieces of tile for 32 cents at Lowes on sale. Took me about 6 peices to cover the cage.and the store should be able to cut tiles if you need them cut. Non-adhesive shelf liner also works well for a substrate. You can buy a role from Wal-mart for about $5 depending on your taste. Reptile carpet works good to that you can get from the pet store. Paper towels are also good substrates, especially for growing babies. You can also use yesterdays newspaper, computer paper, or butcher paper.
For a cage..you need atleast a 20 gallon for a baby. The baby will grow out of it once it hits around 10-12 inches in full length. Then he/she can be moved in a larger cage. 40 gallon breeder cages are good for juveniles and adults. It can last the dragon it's whole life. However, if you have a large adult.say 18" and over, you may wanna consider a bigger cage. Adults need atleast 36" in length and 18" in width for cages. Don't depend on the gallon size.
If you have any reptile shows near you, you can pick up a normal baby dragon for $20 probably. Whatever the price of a dragon, really depends on the morph. Normal dragons are usually the cheap ones.
Check out this forum: http://bearded-dragons.com/boards/index.. . They have all the updated information on how to properly care for bearded dragons. Check us out, and if you have any questions, no matter how many, don't hesitate to ask. Good luck!
try using wikipedia.com to find ur answers, but uuhhh go to petsmart or whatever. I wish i knew what a bearded drangon was :(
My daughter had two. One of them died. She had them for several years. They were both just over a foot long and were fully grown. She kept hers in an aquarium with sand in the bottom which she cleaned regularly. She had some kind of dry food she fed them and she also went to a local bait store and purchased crickets for them to eat. Hope that helped.
Beardies are great, for the right person however. Here are some links with great info below.
TDK
When the male is an adult it gets up to 2 feet long including the tail. you can feed them chopped meat, crickets, leafy greens, and earthworms. You can keep it in a aquarium big enough for it, and provide rocks and branches to climb and stuff. The live for about 10 years. Dont kno how much they are. lol
Mice are not recommended. They are used sparingly to help fatten up pregnant female beardies.
Common food for bearded dragons are crickets, superworms, silkworms, hornworms etc., along with various vegetables and fruits.
Setting up a bearded dragon tank can be quite spendy along with the routine expenses. Need to have a basking light, a UVB bulb, large tank etc.,
Read up a few caresheets and buy all the supplies needed for the setup before hand.
Some bearded dragon caresheets:
http://www.reptilerooms.com/sections+ind.
http://www.australianbeardies.com/care.h.
You should not feed your beardie mice. I have a huge bearded dragon, five years old and hes massive. One of the biggest ive ever seen. He alone is kept in a 65 gallon terrerium. To continue from your other question, i personally feed mine a bowl of veggies (kale and one other veggie such as peas or carrots for variety) every other day. and adult bearded dragon food every other day that its not eating veggies. Then 12 large crickets everyday on top of that. every few months i get him a fuzzy or pinky mouse, but nothing bigger than that. They arent good with digesting big bones and that really fattens them up. They dont grow big at all, about a foot and a half with tail. When i say massive i meant they grow fat and wide. They arent supposed to be kept in filthy tanks at all. They need to be attended to everyday so that they have a bacteria free cage. If you are gonna buy one make sure it is captive breed and not fromt he wild and they dont cost much i paid 100 for mine canadian.
We owned a bearded dragon for about 18 months. They are wonderful pets but you have to do your homework first before getting one. You have to feed them the right balance of veggies, fruit, crickets, worms, etc. plus a calcium supplement along with diet. Also lighting and basking area is important. Do some research before getting one. Ours was an adult when we got her and we didn't know how she had been cared for prior to our getting her and she had metabolic bone disease, stopped eating and drinking, couldn't walk, so we put her down. What a way to die. Please do extensive research 1st and get one from a reputable source. gl
Bearded Dragons are very versitile when it comes to feeding. They will eat vegetables, manufactured Bearded Dragon foods (I recommend Zoomed foods), crickets, mealworms, and mice. Mice are very fattening, though, so I dont suggest giving them many. Vary their diet so they do not get bored and get the most out of their foods (vitamin-wise). Also, if you feed them mealworms or crickets, make sure to dust them with a calcium powder/suppliment once or twice a week.
go to Petco(or any petstore) and ask for a caresheet. You should also look online for more information
Answers:
No they are not taken from the wild. They are captive bred. Most only reach around 16-22" in full length. Some may reach up to 25". Usually the larger dragons are german giants or have german giant in their bloodline though. They are a little on the expensive side. Don't feed them any kind of mice, like pinkies. They contain parasites, are extremely hard for beardies to digest and have poor nutritional value, except they're loaded in fat. It's best you stay away from pinkies. Feed crickets, silkworms, or lobster roaches as there staple (everyday diet) and waxworms, superworms, pheonix worms, and butter worms as treats only. 1 or 2 a week. Sometimes, dragons will get "addicted" to fatty foods like treat worms and wont eat nothing else and gain a whole bunch of weight in the process.
Babies/juveniles are to eat atleast 3 times a day, as many as they can eat in 15 minutes. This can easily add up anywhere between 30-100 crickets per day. Adults only need about 30 max per week.
You'll need reptile multivitamins and calcium supplements (like Repcal's calcium and Repcal's Reptivite for example) to dust crickets and sprinkle greens. For babies and juveniles, dust their crickets with calcium 6 times a week and vitamins 3 or 4 times a week. For adults, dust their crickets 4 times a week with calcium and 2 or 3 times a week with vitamins. I feed my adults 4 crickets a day in the evening (so they'll eat greens during the day). You can buy spray supplements for adults to spray on their greens if they don't like the dust on their greens if needed.
For feeding greens, check out this page: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.co. for a color coded food chart. The foods typed in green can be fed everyday (as a staple). The foods typed in black can be used as treats only. Please watch out for off Ca:P ratios (calcium to phosphorus ratios) and oxalate acid when feeding your dragon. Phosphorus and oxalate acid binds calcium.so your dragon may not be getting the right calcium he needs. Read the whole page if you can. It will greatly help you understand better than I can explain.
You can order crickets in bulk. I buy mine through the pet store. I get 1,000 crickets for $20. There are lots of sites on the web you can buy crickets from.
You also need a UVB light. UVB rays help them obsorbe calcium for proper growth and bone stucture. Beardies deprived from UVB rays will suffer from metabolic bone disease. Get a tube UVB light (not the screw in socket kind) and the bulb needs to be atleast an 8.0 (8% of UVB). Reptisun 5.0's are ok since they are equal to a Reptiglo 8.0. The UVB bulb needs to be changed ever six months. www.lllreptile.com has reptisun 10.0's (highly recommended bulb) for about $22. From what I understand, they are usually around $40 since they put out more UVB than any other flourcent bulb in the market. A Reptiglo 8.0 and other UVB bulbs run about $20-25 depending on where you buy from.
You also need a heat light. Regular household bulbs work good and are cheap. You do not need the expensive UVA basking spot lights from the pet store. You can also use halogen bulbs and indoor flood lights. Basking temps for babies need to be around 110. Juveniles basking temps can range between 105-110, and for adults 100-105. Measure your temps with a digital thermometer with probe. They measure surface temp, not air temp. You need to measure surface temps when you check. basking temps. Wal-mart has digital thermometers with probe for about $8. The little round ones at the pet store can be as much as 20 degrees off and measure air temp. Air temp can be as much as 20 degrees below surface temp. Place the sensor of the probe where ever you want to read temps.
You also need substrate (bedding). Do not use sand. Calci sand, childrens play sand, etc all holds a risk of impation and killing your dragon. Walnut shells, repti bark, etc can tear up the dragons intestines when ingested. All loose particle substrates hold in moisture which harbors bacteria.and isn't good for your reptile. Go to Lowes or Home Depot or another store like that and get some ceramic tiles. They look awesome in cages and are easy to clean. They're a lot cheaper than a few bags of shell or sand too..and you don't need to change tiles unless you are simply tierd of the design. I got my pieces of tile for 32 cents at Lowes on sale. Took me about 6 peices to cover the cage.and the store should be able to cut tiles if you need them cut. Non-adhesive shelf liner also works well for a substrate. You can buy a role from Wal-mart for about $5 depending on your taste. Reptile carpet works good to that you can get from the pet store. Paper towels are also good substrates, especially for growing babies. You can also use yesterdays newspaper, computer paper, or butcher paper.
For a cage..you need atleast a 20 gallon for a baby. The baby will grow out of it once it hits around 10-12 inches in full length. Then he/she can be moved in a larger cage. 40 gallon breeder cages are good for juveniles and adults. It can last the dragon it's whole life. However, if you have a large adult.say 18" and over, you may wanna consider a bigger cage. Adults need atleast 36" in length and 18" in width for cages. Don't depend on the gallon size.
If you have any reptile shows near you, you can pick up a normal baby dragon for $20 probably. Whatever the price of a dragon, really depends on the morph. Normal dragons are usually the cheap ones.
Check out this forum: http://bearded-dragons.com/boards/index.. . They have all the updated information on how to properly care for bearded dragons. Check us out, and if you have any questions, no matter how many, don't hesitate to ask. Good luck!
try using wikipedia.com to find ur answers, but uuhhh go to petsmart or whatever. I wish i knew what a bearded drangon was :(
My daughter had two. One of them died. She had them for several years. They were both just over a foot long and were fully grown. She kept hers in an aquarium with sand in the bottom which she cleaned regularly. She had some kind of dry food she fed them and she also went to a local bait store and purchased crickets for them to eat. Hope that helped.
Beardies are great, for the right person however. Here are some links with great info below.
TDK
When the male is an adult it gets up to 2 feet long including the tail. you can feed them chopped meat, crickets, leafy greens, and earthworms. You can keep it in a aquarium big enough for it, and provide rocks and branches to climb and stuff. The live for about 10 years. Dont kno how much they are. lol
Mice are not recommended. They are used sparingly to help fatten up pregnant female beardies.
Common food for bearded dragons are crickets, superworms, silkworms, hornworms etc., along with various vegetables and fruits.
Setting up a bearded dragon tank can be quite spendy along with the routine expenses. Need to have a basking light, a UVB bulb, large tank etc.,
Read up a few caresheets and buy all the supplies needed for the setup before hand.
Some bearded dragon caresheets:
http://www.reptilerooms.com/sections+ind.
http://www.australianbeardies.com/care.h.
You should not feed your beardie mice. I have a huge bearded dragon, five years old and hes massive. One of the biggest ive ever seen. He alone is kept in a 65 gallon terrerium. To continue from your other question, i personally feed mine a bowl of veggies (kale and one other veggie such as peas or carrots for variety) every other day. and adult bearded dragon food every other day that its not eating veggies. Then 12 large crickets everyday on top of that. every few months i get him a fuzzy or pinky mouse, but nothing bigger than that. They arent good with digesting big bones and that really fattens them up. They dont grow big at all, about a foot and a half with tail. When i say massive i meant they grow fat and wide. They arent supposed to be kept in filthy tanks at all. They need to be attended to everyday so that they have a bacteria free cage. If you are gonna buy one make sure it is captive breed and not fromt he wild and they dont cost much i paid 100 for mine canadian.
We owned a bearded dragon for about 18 months. They are wonderful pets but you have to do your homework first before getting one. You have to feed them the right balance of veggies, fruit, crickets, worms, etc. plus a calcium supplement along with diet. Also lighting and basking area is important. Do some research before getting one. Ours was an adult when we got her and we didn't know how she had been cared for prior to our getting her and she had metabolic bone disease, stopped eating and drinking, couldn't walk, so we put her down. What a way to die. Please do extensive research 1st and get one from a reputable source. gl
Bearded Dragons are very versitile when it comes to feeding. They will eat vegetables, manufactured Bearded Dragon foods (I recommend Zoomed foods), crickets, mealworms, and mice. Mice are very fattening, though, so I dont suggest giving them many. Vary their diet so they do not get bored and get the most out of their foods (vitamin-wise). Also, if you feed them mealworms or crickets, make sure to dust them with a calcium powder/suppliment once or twice a week.
go to Petco(or any petstore) and ask for a caresheet. You should also look online for more information
i want a bearded drandon but how much are they and the tank somone said that i need 2 get a new 1 after a wile
Answers:
They always need to be kept in a cage unless your handling them.I answered your other question, so check it out. To refer to someone else's answer.
Never feed mealworms. They have a hard exo skeleton and high amount of chitin in their shells that are hard for beardies to digest.
Why did you make a new question? You can edit/add to your previous question.
Read up on some caresheets and than feel free to ask away.
40gallon breeder tank or similar homemade or bigger is recommended for an adult bearded dragon.
Some bearded dragon caresheets:
http://www.reptilerooms.com/sections+ind.
http://www.australianbeardies.com/care.h.
Bearded Dragons are between 40 and 80 dollars. They grow to a length of 20 inches. I would recommend a 50 gallon tank for an adult and a 15-20 gallon tank for a young bearded dragon.
Feeding Breaded Dragons
There are many food sources they can thrive on, but you have to have a variety in their diet. The commercially- bred house crickets (Acheta Domestica), Mealworms (Tenebro Molitor), King mealworms (Zophobas morio), and pinky mice. All these food items can be obtained from your local pet store or online.
The vegetation is also a good part in there diet. I have a type of vegetation in there cage all the time. But make sure it is cut up in small strips. The one vegetation you should not feed them is iceberg lettuce because it will give them diarrhea. In iceberg lettuce there is no nutrition at all. They benefit by eating dark, leafy greens such as collard greens, kale, red-tipped leaf lettuce, mustard greens, hibiscus flowers and finely chopped or grated vegetables.
Enclosures
Indoor Vivaria
The minimum size for the adult bearded Dragons is 72"L x 16"W x 17"H vivarium. Use at least a 55-gallon tank if you have one to two Dragons. Try to get a bigger width if possible. Most tanks can be purchased at a local pet store or online.
Outdoor and Greenhouse Vivaria
In the warmer months dragon owners put there dragons outside. This is good because it allows their animals to direct sunlight during the normal hours. The direct sunlight is healthy for them because it allows the D3 to activate the calcium. (The UBV bulbs do the same but not as effective).
In some areas where it is warm all year round Dragon owners keep their Dragons outside all year round. If your Dragon is kept outside have an heat source such as a heater for the extended cool times, with daytimes temperature bellow 55 F. If they remain in a outdoor exposure you should build a structures that the natural ground forms the bottom of the enclosure. The sides should go below ground in case of digging. I personally would not leave the Dragons outside during the winter months. There are too many things to go wrong and kill your dragon if it gets too cold.
Substrates
Land
The dragons need space to climb and a place to run. The Dragon natural habitat is relatively dry and people found that the dragons are happier in a more basic habitat. If there is too much clutter the dragon will not do much. Also breading will be difficult for them. There should be a rock or two in the tank so they can have a lower place to bask. The branches should not be closer then 5 inches from the heat lamp to prevent over heating and thermal burns. There should be a sheltered place where they can crawl into to hide or sleep. Sometimes the females do this to get a break from the males during mating session.
Heating
The temperature in the daytime vivarium should be 80-85 F with one or more basking spots. The nighttime temperature can safely drop to 70 F.
In the basking spot there should be the primary heating unit. This should be a reflector fixture placed above the basking spot. In large tanks there can be more than one heat source. In the basking spot the temperature should reach between 90-100 F.
Some people use a secondary heat source such as under tank heaters, and heat rocks.
(I have heard mixed messages about heat rocks some say they are great and others say they are a danger. This is because bearded Dragons don't have heat sensors on there under belly and cant tell if they are being cooked. Any decision is up to you.)
Get a Fire Alarm in the room you put the Tank!
IMPORTANT: There should be good airflow in the tank. Lizards can suffocate from not enough oxygen.
Maintenance
It is important to keep the tank clean. Clean out the stool every other day or every day. Sterilize the food and water dishes every 4-5 days. Do an over all tank sterilization every 4 weeks or sooner.
If you used carpet the carpet should be taken out and rinsed out. If you used a substrate like sand the sand should be changed when it looks spoiled. To remove the stools from sand just use a cat scupper.
Makes sure that the water level is high and there is fresh vegetation in the food dishes. Change the vegetation every day.
Keep the tank clean just think would I want to live in there?
When setting up the tank there should be some care in the placing of sticks and dishes. There should be a heat lamp on one end of the tank where it is they're basking spot. I have the food and water dish on the opposite end because I found the water and food does not dry up as fast. If the water is directly under the heat lamp the water will evaporate. There should be some sticks in the cage but the highest end should be no higher than what is a safe level for the lizard in climbing out and if it is too close to the heat lamp it can give them thermal burns. I have mine 6-8 inches from the heat lamp at the highest point. I have a couple of rocks under the heat lamp for them to bask on. If find that they spend most of there time on them. If you use sticks from the out side you have to sanitize them. I take bleach and water and scrub it until it is socked with the solution. You should cook it in the oven at 150-200 for about 15 min and it should get rid of any bugs. If you are not sure if the bugs are gone get anther stick or cook it longer or at a higher temperature. Be careful it is wood and can catch on fire.
You can start your own colonies of prey and will never have to buy them again. The only problem is you have to maintain them and keep them clean. This is not a problem if you get into a routine. The crickets can be nosy. But it is worth the expense you save.
Crickets- I started my own colony with these instructions and they are thriving.
Get a medium tank. A ten-gallon will do fine.
Have a water source either the Sponge Idea or the water bits. (If you use a dish with water they will drown and you will have heavy losses.)
Have a food source either the Dry Prey Food or the food bits.
Have a dish (butter dish works fine) and fill it with potting soil. Pat down until firm. Moisten it with a spray bottle.
Get 100-200 crickets or more for the first colony.
Keep soil most
Don鈥檛 take away from colony. You can take the babes that are made and then put 30-40 crickets back into the original colony.
Have another tank for the feeder crickets. (The ones you will feed to the lizards.)
Keep up the food and water.
Clean every week.
Warning: Crickets may be noisy so think where you will put the colony tank. It should be in a warm area but it doesn鈥檛 need to be heated.
Mealworms and king Mealworms- They are vary easy to breed but it takes patience. You get a small 2-gallon container form the local pet store. Then you put all the mealworms into it. Add oranges or potatoes on the top. I would add a piece of egg carton in the top for the beetles. The larva turns into beetles and lay eggs and then you get more mealworms. Be careful not to take too many mealworms or you will exhaust the colony supply. Add corn meal every week for there food. Change the orange or potato so it doesn't start to mold and kill off your colony.
Wax worms- Are a fatty source of food. I would not recommend this to be the staple food source but as a treat or for pregnant Dragons. You do the same thing as mealworms except the larva spin a cocoon and turn into moths so you need a closed container.
i want a baby iguana so should i get it now or wait until summer?
Answers:
Do not get a iguana if its your first reptile it is really hard to take care of your will get cuts a lot they are expensive to take care of the caging is really hard as well just make sure its what you want first and do a lot of research and i would definitely wait till the summer to get one if you were to get one Also get the tank and everything set up before you get it REMEBER TO MAKE SURE YOU WANT IT!
depends where you live.
ask at a local pet store or animal shelter (ASPCA or Humane Society)
wait until you know enough about them that you dont ask silly questions like this.
if you live near boston u can have mine.he isn't a baby but he is about 3 feet long
whichever. but be SURE that's what you want. i have two iguanas i am trying to find homes for.
why wait get it now,but get the tank setup
i don't think it matters as lon as you keep a heat lamp on it. i got my geco in winter and he was fine.
I TOOK MY IGGY TO THE VET WE TRIED EVERY THING BUT HE DIED RIP IF U THINK THIS IS SAD REPLY PLEASE HE WAs A
GOOD IGUANA
Answers:
I'm deeply sorry for your loss :( Did you guys find out what was wrong with the tail?
Aww poor thing. Let his soal rest in peace and bless him. Poor thing. Your probly feeling awful. I hope you feel better about it!!: )
Very sad, we have had many pets from snakes to spiders. some bought some caught, I miss em all. sorry for your loss truely!!
aww im so sorry
I am very sorry for your loss of your pet. I, too, have pets and when they pass away that is so-o sad. I empathize with you and it is a good and healthy sign that you are talking about it. You sound like you are a very caring person. God bless.
There is nothing to compare to the pain and sense of loss when you lose a pet. The relationship between a pet and an owner is one that can be the strongest bond.
My heart goes out to you! I am so sorry that you lost your iguana. It never matters what type of animal it is, only that you lost them.
RIP to your iggy!
sorry to hear it loosing a pet is like loosing your best freind
I know how you feel, i lost my green water dragon a long while ago, it never stop hurting, but just remember this, iggy knows you love it still very much, so get on with your life, but don't forget about it.
Iguanas DO NOT die from a fractured tail, there was more going on and please do not ever get another iguana.
awwwwwww thats sad, bless him and best of luck to you in getting over it.
Thats so sad i feel so sorry for u
I sorry your friend IGGY died it sucks having a pet die
I remember my first two alligators I got alexander killed the other
and now alexander is over 4ft
i no how it feel s my iggy all most died and i hated the feeling he broke is arm and was draggging it around i hope he is out of his sick body so if you did this he/she will forgive you i hate this felling
yes this is very sad.
My prayers are with you. I have towo iggs of my own and would feel awful if either one of them where to pass from this world. Please accept my condolences.
Answers:
I'm deeply sorry for your loss :( Did you guys find out what was wrong with the tail?
Aww poor thing. Let his soal rest in peace and bless him. Poor thing. Your probly feeling awful. I hope you feel better about it!!: )
Very sad, we have had many pets from snakes to spiders. some bought some caught, I miss em all. sorry for your loss truely!!
aww im so sorry
I am very sorry for your loss of your pet. I, too, have pets and when they pass away that is so-o sad. I empathize with you and it is a good and healthy sign that you are talking about it. You sound like you are a very caring person. God bless.
There is nothing to compare to the pain and sense of loss when you lose a pet. The relationship between a pet and an owner is one that can be the strongest bond.
My heart goes out to you! I am so sorry that you lost your iguana. It never matters what type of animal it is, only that you lost them.
RIP to your iggy!
sorry to hear it loosing a pet is like loosing your best freind
I know how you feel, i lost my green water dragon a long while ago, it never stop hurting, but just remember this, iggy knows you love it still very much, so get on with your life, but don't forget about it.
Iguanas DO NOT die from a fractured tail, there was more going on and please do not ever get another iguana.
awwwwwww thats sad, bless him and best of luck to you in getting over it.
Thats so sad i feel so sorry for u
I sorry your friend IGGY died it sucks having a pet die
I remember my first two alligators I got alexander killed the other
and now alexander is over 4ft
i no how it feel s my iggy all most died and i hated the feeling he broke is arm and was draggging it around i hope he is out of his sick body so if you did this he/she will forgive you i hate this felling
yes this is very sad.
My prayers are with you. I have towo iggs of my own and would feel awful if either one of them where to pass from this world. Please accept my condolences.
i thought tarantulas liked hiding, why does my chile rose never hide away?
my chile always sits on guard on his log or just at the back of his tank he never uses his flower pot, i have read they love to hide away.
Answers:
Is it possible your Chilean Rose tarantuala (Grammostola rosea) may still be hungry? My curly-hair comes out and "begs" when I don't feed her on time.
They're one of the more docile creatures, so if it feels safe in it's surroundings it will feel no need to hide. I would try seeing if it may still be hungry though. Younger tarantulas who still have a lot of growing to do are pretty voracious eaters.:-)
Probably used to you and wants to be held.
Ugh. I hate spiders. Sorry. But maybe change the pot. He doesn't like it.
i had 2 of them i love spiders! and snakes! oh, do you pet him?
r he must feel very safe thats nice
maybe it is not scared of u and it wants to be seen
They don't love to hide they only hide if they feel threatened or scared and evidently he don't feel like that around you, also you might want to consider changing his pot he may not like it!
well all spiders have a general catagory but think about it this way, its not got to hide from danger in a tank.
its on amphetamine and cant get any shut eye
Answers:
Is it possible your Chilean Rose tarantuala (Grammostola rosea) may still be hungry? My curly-hair comes out and "begs" when I don't feed her on time.
They're one of the more docile creatures, so if it feels safe in it's surroundings it will feel no need to hide. I would try seeing if it may still be hungry though. Younger tarantulas who still have a lot of growing to do are pretty voracious eaters.:-)
Probably used to you and wants to be held.
Ugh. I hate spiders. Sorry. But maybe change the pot. He doesn't like it.
i had 2 of them i love spiders! and snakes! oh, do you pet him?
r he must feel very safe thats nice
maybe it is not scared of u and it wants to be seen
They don't love to hide they only hide if they feel threatened or scared and evidently he don't feel like that around you, also you might want to consider changing his pot he may not like it!
well all spiders have a general catagory but think about it this way, its not got to hide from danger in a tank.
its on amphetamine and cant get any shut eye
I think 'sausage' is a fantastic word..It comes off the tongue really well.. Do you have a fave word?
'Flange' is another one!
Answers:
Sausage is a very nice word, especially if you use different pronounciations. Lately my favorite word is " Moist" I like to say it slowly, over and over again.
Weetabik
fantasmagorical, chaos, tubular
String and job (everyone laughs when I say 'I've got jobs to do' - no idea where I got it from) lol
Anatomically correct.
catalistic converter.. !!
Hence. I use it in all important conversations.
"bumble-bee" .actually is that 2 words?
Supercalafragalisticexpealiodo. it comes off the tongue well.once you start you cant stop..
Nice one - I love the word sausage too, but I think it would come a close 2nd to 'Squelchy'.
Maybe we could combine the 2..squelchy sausages, squelchy sausages..
A few mine is 'Blimp' just fabulous.
I am Jack's Rage. F a duck! is my favorite thing to say or think to myself. It rolls off my mind so well.
guacamole
Hullabaloo
tis
Narf
tubing.
haha, TOOOOOOOBING
I like the word Minge, what a lovely word. The Ladies like that word too.
Me too!
Relish. I like the food and doing things with gusto. Plus it just sounds great!
Bartholamew
Say the name five times and you turn into Mr Bean
bozzacks.
I like the word dissonance.
I like 'socks' and 'vomit'.I don't know why.maybe the strong pronunciation
My favourite is really cheesy . Mother.
Also my favourite person! What a coincidence!
Fiat Mirafori it was a car.
potato!
or. champingnons
SPRINKY. i dare you to say it and not smile.
I'm flabbergasted!
saganake
My 4 faves string together well,
"See you in bed!"
i can't spell so be warned..burgle. it's just strange.but gd!
Answers:
Sausage is a very nice word, especially if you use different pronounciations. Lately my favorite word is " Moist" I like to say it slowly, over and over again.
Weetabik
fantasmagorical, chaos, tubular
String and job (everyone laughs when I say 'I've got jobs to do' - no idea where I got it from) lol
Anatomically correct.
catalistic converter.. !!
Hence. I use it in all important conversations.
"bumble-bee" .actually is that 2 words?
Supercalafragalisticexpealiodo. it comes off the tongue well.once you start you cant stop..
Nice one - I love the word sausage too, but I think it would come a close 2nd to 'Squelchy'.
Maybe we could combine the 2..squelchy sausages, squelchy sausages..
A few mine is 'Blimp' just fabulous.
I am Jack's Rage. F a duck! is my favorite thing to say or think to myself. It rolls off my mind so well.
guacamole
Hullabaloo
tis
Narf
tubing.
haha, TOOOOOOOBING
I like the word Minge, what a lovely word. The Ladies like that word too.
Me too!
Relish. I like the food and doing things with gusto. Plus it just sounds great!
Bartholamew
Say the name five times and you turn into Mr Bean
bozzacks.
I like the word dissonance.
I like 'socks' and 'vomit'.I don't know why.maybe the strong pronunciation
My favourite is really cheesy . Mother.
Also my favourite person! What a coincidence!
Fiat Mirafori it was a car.
potato!
or. champingnons
SPRINKY. i dare you to say it and not smile.
I'm flabbergasted!
saganake
My 4 faves string together well,
"See you in bed!"
i can't spell so be warned..burgle. it's just strange.but gd!
i think my turtle is dieing some one help and tell me whats up please?
he is getting white spots and reddish ones to white foam around his mouth and he sits on his rock and looks up with his mouth open gasping 4 air he wont eat out of my hand any more and it seem like he is weak please please please someone tell me whats wrong
Answers:
You will need to find a Reptile Vet to check out your pet. Sounds bad.
Yeah it doesn't sound good at all..maybe from the diet over a period of time or from a dacteria that he got..take it to a vet that knows what they are doing
depending on the type of turtle you have (aquatic or land) try and take itoutside in the fresh sunlight and fresh air. if aquatic or land actually try soaking in luke warm, clean fresh water in the sun for a few minutes. water relaxes as well as hydrates the animal when they are submerged in it. try placing the food down instead of hand feeding. clean the cage and sanitize to make sure no parasites are in there. if that still does not work then take to the vet :)
don know need to take him to a vet
This is blunt, but honestly that's bad and your turtle will die if you don't get it to a vet. Be sure you find a good vet that knows about turtles. It will most likely need antibiotics.
Sounds like mouth rot (Ulcerative or necrotic stomatitus). This is a tricky condition that is difficult for most keepers to deal with on their own.
Check out these links for info:
http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/mouthr.
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?.
http://redearslider.com/index_health_3.h.
Answers:
You will need to find a Reptile Vet to check out your pet. Sounds bad.
Yeah it doesn't sound good at all..maybe from the diet over a period of time or from a dacteria that he got..take it to a vet that knows what they are doing
depending on the type of turtle you have (aquatic or land) try and take itoutside in the fresh sunlight and fresh air. if aquatic or land actually try soaking in luke warm, clean fresh water in the sun for a few minutes. water relaxes as well as hydrates the animal when they are submerged in it. try placing the food down instead of hand feeding. clean the cage and sanitize to make sure no parasites are in there. if that still does not work then take to the vet :)
don know need to take him to a vet
This is blunt, but honestly that's bad and your turtle will die if you don't get it to a vet. Be sure you find a good vet that knows about turtles. It will most likely need antibiotics.
Sounds like mouth rot (Ulcerative or necrotic stomatitus). This is a tricky condition that is difficult for most keepers to deal with on their own.
Check out these links for info:
http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/mouthr.
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?.
http://redearslider.com/index_health_3.h.
I think my corn snake tail is going to fall off is it bad or painful, will it grow back?
I bought it last week and it shed the next night. I noticed there was skin still there and I believe there is old skin from when it was at the store. I have tried everything from soaking, olive oil and rubbing it with a towel. Now I think it is to late to save it. I'm so very sad that it is happening but I think it is to late to save it. I just don't want it to hurt or get infected, any suggestions?
Answers:
If it is just the tip then the snake will do fine with out it. As for if it is painfull I would not know I have never asked a snake if it hurts. You can also try a product called snake oil sold at most pet stores. You rub this in to the animal once a day for several days and that should help. You can also give a good oiling when you notice that your snake is getting ready to shed next time to help with this. Also if Humidity is too low there will be problems. Try spraying the snake and its tank with warm water daily around shed times. You do not want it wet in there just a light misting to add humidity. If you could find a pair of fine point tweezers you might be able to slip one side under the stuck skin and work it lose that way but this is trick and if your snake does not like it you could get bit. Just watch him close and if you are worried or something does not look right to you take him the vet. If it is to the point where his tail is going to fall off this has been a problem from long before you bought him. You may be able to go back to the pet store and maybe if they are decent they will help you remove the shed or replace your snake it takes many sheds to build up to the point of losing tails not just one or two.. Good luck to you
If the tail actually falls off, it should not hurt the snake. Its actually good because it will not spread the infection through the whole snake. Do you have a local vet or specialist. If it does start to look infected, take it to the vet. if not, just let nature take its course and heal itself. Good luck, I hope he is ok.
The shed should be complete. If it is too dry it may have trouble shedding (make sure the humidity is in the correct range) If the skin is left on the tail, the tail will die and fall off and it wont grow back. The skin that stays on the tip of the tail slowly constricts the end of the tail as it grows, which causes it to die and fall off.
There really isnt any cause for concern the snake will be fine without the end of its tail.
Take it to a reptile vet. If it loses that piece of tail, it will not grow back.
take it to the VET
Answers:
If it is just the tip then the snake will do fine with out it. As for if it is painfull I would not know I have never asked a snake if it hurts. You can also try a product called snake oil sold at most pet stores. You rub this in to the animal once a day for several days and that should help. You can also give a good oiling when you notice that your snake is getting ready to shed next time to help with this. Also if Humidity is too low there will be problems. Try spraying the snake and its tank with warm water daily around shed times. You do not want it wet in there just a light misting to add humidity. If you could find a pair of fine point tweezers you might be able to slip one side under the stuck skin and work it lose that way but this is trick and if your snake does not like it you could get bit. Just watch him close and if you are worried or something does not look right to you take him the vet. If it is to the point where his tail is going to fall off this has been a problem from long before you bought him. You may be able to go back to the pet store and maybe if they are decent they will help you remove the shed or replace your snake it takes many sheds to build up to the point of losing tails not just one or two.. Good luck to you
If the tail actually falls off, it should not hurt the snake. Its actually good because it will not spread the infection through the whole snake. Do you have a local vet or specialist. If it does start to look infected, take it to the vet. if not, just let nature take its course and heal itself. Good luck, I hope he is ok.
The shed should be complete. If it is too dry it may have trouble shedding (make sure the humidity is in the correct range) If the skin is left on the tail, the tail will die and fall off and it wont grow back. The skin that stays on the tip of the tail slowly constricts the end of the tail as it grows, which causes it to die and fall off.
There really isnt any cause for concern the snake will be fine without the end of its tail.
Take it to a reptile vet. If it loses that piece of tail, it will not grow back.
take it to the VET
I think my baby corn snake is terrified of me.?
What should i do? Every time i pick him up he goes mad! This morning he threw himself on the floor! Is it a good idea to handle him daily when he's going mad everytime?
Answers:
You should handle your new corn on a regular basis. It's scared of you in the sense that it's survival instincts tell it (and all newborns) to hide. It has no idea that you mean it no harm and must come to realize that your touch isn't life threatening. It will take time, so be patient and very gentle. Don't squeeze the snake if it feels like it's slipping thru your fingers, but place your other hand in front for it to crawl to. Also, don't hold the snake while you're standing. Sit down to reduce the distance to the floor in case the baby does happen to fall. While you're
sitting, the snake will feel much more secure in your lap rather than dangling 3ft off the floor while you're standing.
Put it on a plane!
how would you feel if a giant picked you up everyday and was oh my pretty human..let me stroke you there..wouldnt you get pissed off?by the way..i would * myself by the snake.
Most baby snakes are so full of energy and don't want to be handled much. Older snakes have less energy and just tolerate being picked up. It's a good idea to keep handling your baby snake once in a while though so it gets used to you. Just don't overdo it to where the snake ends up getting stressed though. Maybe a few minutes every three days or so would be enough. =)
i am terrified of you too
My ex husband used to carry our snakes around in his shirt pocket and hold them and just let them be busy until they quieted down and slept. Just hold the snake quietly and don't be hyper or nervous or anything. It takes time to hand tame a snake and it is best to get used to each other now rather than when it is bigger and has stronger jaws and slightly larger teeth. Now if it gets mad and bites then it won't even break the skin. Just don't stress it too much and give it plenty of quiet time as well.
Have fun with your new pet. They are lots of fun.
Answers:
You should handle your new corn on a regular basis. It's scared of you in the sense that it's survival instincts tell it (and all newborns) to hide. It has no idea that you mean it no harm and must come to realize that your touch isn't life threatening. It will take time, so be patient and very gentle. Don't squeeze the snake if it feels like it's slipping thru your fingers, but place your other hand in front for it to crawl to. Also, don't hold the snake while you're standing. Sit down to reduce the distance to the floor in case the baby does happen to fall. While you're
sitting, the snake will feel much more secure in your lap rather than dangling 3ft off the floor while you're standing.
Put it on a plane!
how would you feel if a giant picked you up everyday and was oh my pretty human..let me stroke you there..wouldnt you get pissed off?by the way..i would * myself by the snake.
Most baby snakes are so full of energy and don't want to be handled much. Older snakes have less energy and just tolerate being picked up. It's a good idea to keep handling your baby snake once in a while though so it gets used to you. Just don't overdo it to where the snake ends up getting stressed though. Maybe a few minutes every three days or so would be enough. =)
i am terrified of you too
My ex husband used to carry our snakes around in his shirt pocket and hold them and just let them be busy until they quieted down and slept. Just hold the snake quietly and don't be hyper or nervous or anything. It takes time to hand tame a snake and it is best to get used to each other now rather than when it is bigger and has stronger jaws and slightly larger teeth. Now if it gets mad and bites then it won't even break the skin. Just don't stress it too much and give it plenty of quiet time as well.
Have fun with your new pet. They are lots of fun.
i think i have a sick toad please help!?
ok i have a little garden in my front yard with a frog pond and frog huts and plants any way if i leave a small file of cat food by my front door 45 seconds later ull see like 20 toads eating it. they all live in the garden but theres this one that has red stuff stuck 2 its but. no its not poop. its like a pinkish color and i always see him in my garden and when i leave out the cat food. what the hell is wrong with it. please i dont want it 2 die should i take it 2 a vet and if i do. do they take toads??
Answers:
No no no!
Don't touch it!
Don't try wiping it!
And for the love of g,',d, don't lick it.
It sounds like she might be carrying her babies on her back. Some species do that. don't touch her until you know! Identify the type of toad, their means of reproduction, and known vulnerabilities to diseases. You should be able to get answers from the InterNet (narrow your search quickly with an image search).
Think about it. you have a frog paradise, with habitat and FOOD! Lots of it! Animals think about safety, food, and mating. I think that you should leave her alone, and see if you don't get some babies, soon.
If you are really worried, you can remove her from the others in case it's contagious - and then wash your hands!
Mostly, just wait and watch to see what happens.
just vist a vet and they hopefully will not chage you unless it really is sick. but first just wipe it off ( if possible ) and see what it is if you can
have you tried licking it?
Just call your local animal control!
this is what i think
1. its a frog yuck
2 . the frog is a part of nature thats where he lives i think that if you take him out of nature that might be harder for him to survive even if he does have a problem
it probably is eggs.
Answers:
No no no!
Don't touch it!
Don't try wiping it!
And for the love of g,',d, don't lick it.
It sounds like she might be carrying her babies on her back. Some species do that. don't touch her until you know! Identify the type of toad, their means of reproduction, and known vulnerabilities to diseases. You should be able to get answers from the InterNet (narrow your search quickly with an image search).
Think about it. you have a frog paradise, with habitat and FOOD! Lots of it! Animals think about safety, food, and mating. I think that you should leave her alone, and see if you don't get some babies, soon.
If you are really worried, you can remove her from the others in case it's contagious - and then wash your hands!
Mostly, just wait and watch to see what happens.
just vist a vet and they hopefully will not chage you unless it really is sick. but first just wipe it off ( if possible ) and see what it is if you can
have you tried licking it?
Just call your local animal control!
this is what i think
1. its a frog yuck
2 . the frog is a part of nature thats where he lives i think that if you take him out of nature that might be harder for him to survive even if he does have a problem
it probably is eggs.
I smell really bad and my friends dont like me anymore. What should I do?
I need 2 know what 2 do!
Answers:
Take a shower and wash your clothes! Duh! Clean your house,and get rid of any felines in your house!!
Uh. Take a bath??
Try having a bath lol
try hot water, soap and a scrub brush !!
lilac blosoms have a nice smell when crushed. try puting some in the bath next time you take a bath
Try showering daily. If that dosen't work get in to see a doctor, sometimes body oder can be a result of a medical condition.
How is this a reptile question? Any way, good hygiene helps.so bathe
takes baths, make sure your bathroom is clean. ask the doctor if this doesn't stop. use deodorant!
Answers:
Take a shower and wash your clothes! Duh! Clean your house,and get rid of any felines in your house!!
Uh. Take a bath??
Try having a bath lol
try hot water, soap and a scrub brush !!
lilac blosoms have a nice smell when crushed. try puting some in the bath next time you take a bath
Try showering daily. If that dosen't work get in to see a doctor, sometimes body oder can be a result of a medical condition.
How is this a reptile question? Any way, good hygiene helps.so bathe
takes baths, make sure your bathroom is clean. ask the doctor if this doesn't stop. use deodorant!
I should have asked if anyone else was frustrated?
Hi
Ok I asked who thinks there are too many out here asking etc.. a few minutes ago.. so far great response.
First.. I am a retired Trauma Nurse, I also have a Zoology degree, work in Wildlife rescue, conservation and manage urban waterfowl
I am obtaining a wildlife Vet degree as well.
I understand how important it is for folks who do not know to have a place to go ask and for folks who do know to take a sec and answer.. I guess I am only frustrated in what I read so much of.. and you cant answer them all and you never heaer back from most as to the outcome of what ended up happening.
My question should have been. anyone else frustrated? I certainly do not want people not coming out asking and just leaving an animal suffer ..
No offesne was meant at all.. just looking for others who are frustrated is all!
:0)
Thanks
Wismom
Answers:
The thing that gets to me is how many people can get a animal and know absolutely nothing about it. If people would just google the name of the reptile they keep a whole lot of information usually will come up and answer all of there questions.. Even better would be doing that BEFORE you get the animal.
the thing that irritates me about this forum is that people will answer questions that they know nothing about just to get two points.. Every single question asked on here has some very FALSE information given to it. How is anyone to know who to actually believe?
Boy don't I know what you mean. The thing that frustrates me more than anything is the people who come on asking questions about breeding dogs. If you don't know these kinds of things (simple things I knew before I knew how to read!) then you shouldn't be bringing new life into this world. It really ticks me off because here they are ruining lives that haven't even had a chance yet by not giving them a good start. I really wish that we could impose some sort of law that would make it so people can't breed unless they have champion dogs. I realize though that even with that then you need somebody to police it and so on and so forth. I wish that it was a matter of "common sense" but I think we should simply refer to this as "sense" because it's certainly not common anymore. I am in dog rescue and I also show Labradors so I see way more of this stuff than some of the other people who will read this do. Just a way of defense saying I know that of which I speak. My folks raise and show Chis, and have been doing so as long as I can remember (20 some years). They had to start out just like everyone else, without information and the like, but if you take the time to read books you can find all the information necessary to properly care for and breed dogs. If you won't take the time to do that, then you shouldn't breeding PERIOD.
Your not alone. I am sick of people posting questions that if they had half a brain they would know to contact a vet instead of posting life threating illnesses on here.
Hari Raya is around the corner and I am very, very happy and not frustrated. Why are you looking for frustrated people when you should be looking for positive thinking people.
Ok I asked who thinks there are too many out here asking etc.. a few minutes ago.. so far great response.
First.. I am a retired Trauma Nurse, I also have a Zoology degree, work in Wildlife rescue, conservation and manage urban waterfowl
I am obtaining a wildlife Vet degree as well.
I understand how important it is for folks who do not know to have a place to go ask and for folks who do know to take a sec and answer.. I guess I am only frustrated in what I read so much of.. and you cant answer them all and you never heaer back from most as to the outcome of what ended up happening.
My question should have been. anyone else frustrated? I certainly do not want people not coming out asking and just leaving an animal suffer ..
No offesne was meant at all.. just looking for others who are frustrated is all!
:0)
Thanks
Wismom
Answers:
The thing that gets to me is how many people can get a animal and know absolutely nothing about it. If people would just google the name of the reptile they keep a whole lot of information usually will come up and answer all of there questions.. Even better would be doing that BEFORE you get the animal.
the thing that irritates me about this forum is that people will answer questions that they know nothing about just to get two points.. Every single question asked on here has some very FALSE information given to it. How is anyone to know who to actually believe?
Boy don't I know what you mean. The thing that frustrates me more than anything is the people who come on asking questions about breeding dogs. If you don't know these kinds of things (simple things I knew before I knew how to read!) then you shouldn't be bringing new life into this world. It really ticks me off because here they are ruining lives that haven't even had a chance yet by not giving them a good start. I really wish that we could impose some sort of law that would make it so people can't breed unless they have champion dogs. I realize though that even with that then you need somebody to police it and so on and so forth. I wish that it was a matter of "common sense" but I think we should simply refer to this as "sense" because it's certainly not common anymore. I am in dog rescue and I also show Labradors so I see way more of this stuff than some of the other people who will read this do. Just a way of defense saying I know that of which I speak. My folks raise and show Chis, and have been doing so as long as I can remember (20 some years). They had to start out just like everyone else, without information and the like, but if you take the time to read books you can find all the information necessary to properly care for and breed dogs. If you won't take the time to do that, then you shouldn't breeding PERIOD.
Your not alone. I am sick of people posting questions that if they had half a brain they would know to contact a vet instead of posting life threating illnesses on here.
Hari Raya is around the corner and I am very, very happy and not frustrated. Why are you looking for frustrated people when you should be looking for positive thinking people.
I see people who have turtles for pets and their housing seems too small. What is a turtle supposed to have ?
I would like to know the size of the tank needed, does it need rocks to get up on, and how often should you clean the water and what kind of water should you use. also what do they eat and how often. thanks to all who respond.
Answers:
Tanks:
It is recommended that you have alt least 10 gallons of swimming water per inch of turtle shell. Thus, a 3" turtle should be in a 50 gallon or so tank with about 30 gallons of water in it. Most keepers use large plastic (Rubbermaid, Sterilite, etc.) tubs instead of heavier, more expensive glass tanks.
Some people say that the water should not be too deep because if the turtle gets trapped, it will drown. Instead, your cage should just be designed so turtles cannot get trapped! On the other hand, in general, it is better for the tank to be wide than it is for it to be deep.
The tank water should be heated to 75-80, and filtered heavily- about twice as much filtration as a fish tank the same size would use.
Basking Sites:
Your turtles need to get out of the water in a way that is safe, does not scrape them badly, and lets them feel comfortable. Most pond turtles prefer to be sunning over water than on a beach so they can just drop back in the water when threatened.
You can acomplish this with a pile of rocks, driftwood, rafts, platforms attached to the tank, etc. Avoid oily or treated wood (including redwood or cedar). You should usually try to provide several basking options- and warm at least some of the sites to about 90.
Cleaning:
With good filtration, you won't have to clean the tank as often, but you should do a partial water change regularly- often enough to prevent the usual 'turtle tank' smell. It is best to vacumn the bottom gunk out to do the water change. Every so often, you'll have to tear the tank down, scrub it, and start over no matter what.
Water:
If you can drink it, you can use it in the turtle tank without treatment.
Diet:
Beginners should stick to high-quality turtle pellets, supplemented with live 'fish food'- small fish, worms, etc.
Feed a baby turtle daily, a young turtle every other day, and an adult ever three days. A serving is about the same size as their head (or a bit more).
You can learn more at the sites below:
turtles move like 2 hundred feet in a year. I dont think they mind a small tank. throw some rocks and grass and maybe a water spot/small pond and they are straight.
Depends on the turtle. Is it salt or freshwater? What size is it?
What kind of turtle is it? A water turtle, land turtle, box turtle what? A little more information would help you in finding the correct response.
Turtles are wild animals they should live in their natural habitat or at least a back yard - garden (well enclosed). I suppose you don't mean tortoise or terrapines, who live in water?
Freedom.
well i had two red-eared turtles and they grow pretty fast, they also dirty the water really fast so i had them in a 10-gallon tank with a filter and that was a great place for them, i had big rocks for them to get up on, none of that small gravel (it goes into their shell) they have to have warm water (depending on the types) they should have the food at the pet store. it is very important for them to be able to get out of the water for a bit. they should have filtered water, always clean
go get you a good turtle book at the pet shop that will answer all your questions and show different ideas of set ups for your turtle
and what to feed it and everything else
I have 2 Red Eared Sliders
I keep them in a large kiddie pool. It has an island in the center with their light hanging from the ceiling.
Mine are in a large enclosure because I believe when you keep an animal in captivity you should give them plenty of space to move around. No matter how inactive you think they are.
Many people tell themselves oh they don't move around allot so I will put them in this tiny cage and they will be happy. No they have no choice but to sit in one spot because even if they wanted to move around they couldn't.
It depends first on the type of turtle. For instance RES (red eared sliders) have to come out to bask. I have a 75 gallon for my full grown female. To be honest it is almost too small. The size of tank a RES needs though is at minium 75 gallons and thats for one turtle. You have to use a filter that is capable of twice the amount of water in the tank. I clean my tank about every 10 days. You have to clean it even if it looks clear. You also don't want to use any comercial cleaners in it as this can kill the bacteria and harm your turtle. The bacteria in the tank is good for the water and the turtle. I simply wipe down the sides were algie has started forming with a damp paper towel. As far as food I asked my vet and again this depends on the turtle but an RES can be feed every other day but only once and the diet must be varied .Here is a list dark green veggies such a collards, mustard greens or romaine lettuce. Turtle pellets, crickets, feeder fish and meal worms or earth worms are good. The proper lighting must be provided as well a full spectrum basking light is reguired above the basking area. This is so the turtle can get out and dry their shell off. It prevents diseases such as shell rot. The second type of lighting needed is UVB this is essential. This light helps the turtle digest thier food. You also need a water heater and thermometers to monitor the temp in the basking area and the water. Basking area should be around 80 degrees and the water between 70-80 degrees. I think that is about it . Turtles are very expensive pets I am up to about a thousand dollars now and have only had mine two years. I had no idea what I was getting when someone gave her to me. The best thing to do is buy big now so you don't have to upgrade later. You will save money in the long run. They are worth it in the long run.
Answers:
Tanks:
It is recommended that you have alt least 10 gallons of swimming water per inch of turtle shell. Thus, a 3" turtle should be in a 50 gallon or so tank with about 30 gallons of water in it. Most keepers use large plastic (Rubbermaid, Sterilite, etc.) tubs instead of heavier, more expensive glass tanks.
Some people say that the water should not be too deep because if the turtle gets trapped, it will drown. Instead, your cage should just be designed so turtles cannot get trapped! On the other hand, in general, it is better for the tank to be wide than it is for it to be deep.
The tank water should be heated to 75-80, and filtered heavily- about twice as much filtration as a fish tank the same size would use.
Basking Sites:
Your turtles need to get out of the water in a way that is safe, does not scrape them badly, and lets them feel comfortable. Most pond turtles prefer to be sunning over water than on a beach so they can just drop back in the water when threatened.
You can acomplish this with a pile of rocks, driftwood, rafts, platforms attached to the tank, etc. Avoid oily or treated wood (including redwood or cedar). You should usually try to provide several basking options- and warm at least some of the sites to about 90.
Cleaning:
With good filtration, you won't have to clean the tank as often, but you should do a partial water change regularly- often enough to prevent the usual 'turtle tank' smell. It is best to vacumn the bottom gunk out to do the water change. Every so often, you'll have to tear the tank down, scrub it, and start over no matter what.
Water:
If you can drink it, you can use it in the turtle tank without treatment.
Diet:
Beginners should stick to high-quality turtle pellets, supplemented with live 'fish food'- small fish, worms, etc.
Feed a baby turtle daily, a young turtle every other day, and an adult ever three days. A serving is about the same size as their head (or a bit more).
You can learn more at the sites below:
turtles move like 2 hundred feet in a year. I dont think they mind a small tank. throw some rocks and grass and maybe a water spot/small pond and they are straight.
Depends on the turtle. Is it salt or freshwater? What size is it?
What kind of turtle is it? A water turtle, land turtle, box turtle what? A little more information would help you in finding the correct response.
Turtles are wild animals they should live in their natural habitat or at least a back yard - garden (well enclosed). I suppose you don't mean tortoise or terrapines, who live in water?
Freedom.
well i had two red-eared turtles and they grow pretty fast, they also dirty the water really fast so i had them in a 10-gallon tank with a filter and that was a great place for them, i had big rocks for them to get up on, none of that small gravel (it goes into their shell) they have to have warm water (depending on the types) they should have the food at the pet store. it is very important for them to be able to get out of the water for a bit. they should have filtered water, always clean
go get you a good turtle book at the pet shop that will answer all your questions and show different ideas of set ups for your turtle
and what to feed it and everything else
I have 2 Red Eared Sliders
I keep them in a large kiddie pool. It has an island in the center with their light hanging from the ceiling.
Mine are in a large enclosure because I believe when you keep an animal in captivity you should give them plenty of space to move around. No matter how inactive you think they are.
Many people tell themselves oh they don't move around allot so I will put them in this tiny cage and they will be happy. No they have no choice but to sit in one spot because even if they wanted to move around they couldn't.
It depends first on the type of turtle. For instance RES (red eared sliders) have to come out to bask. I have a 75 gallon for my full grown female. To be honest it is almost too small. The size of tank a RES needs though is at minium 75 gallons and thats for one turtle. You have to use a filter that is capable of twice the amount of water in the tank. I clean my tank about every 10 days. You have to clean it even if it looks clear. You also don't want to use any comercial cleaners in it as this can kill the bacteria and harm your turtle. The bacteria in the tank is good for the water and the turtle. I simply wipe down the sides were algie has started forming with a damp paper towel. As far as food I asked my vet and again this depends on the turtle but an RES can be feed every other day but only once and the diet must be varied .Here is a list dark green veggies such a collards, mustard greens or romaine lettuce. Turtle pellets, crickets, feeder fish and meal worms or earth worms are good. The proper lighting must be provided as well a full spectrum basking light is reguired above the basking area. This is so the turtle can get out and dry their shell off. It prevents diseases such as shell rot. The second type of lighting needed is UVB this is essential. This light helps the turtle digest thier food. You also need a water heater and thermometers to monitor the temp in the basking area and the water. Basking area should be around 80 degrees and the water between 70-80 degrees. I think that is about it . Turtles are very expensive pets I am up to about a thousand dollars now and have only had mine two years. I had no idea what I was getting when someone gave her to me. The best thing to do is buy big now so you don't have to upgrade later. You will save money in the long run. They are worth it in the long run.
I saw some crocodiles laughing today. What's so funny?
Answers:
Seems the Stingrays are havin'a party over some dumb-. Poked a hole in his ticker ya know. Poor sap. Shouldve stayed in that auto sales job. Oh well.
that steve irwin actually died know one can believe it that's y
steve erwin died.duh
monkeys(and u!!)
Larry, you are a very bad boy. Go to your room. I will be in later to give you a good talking to.
You left your zipper open and they saw your tiny dick
Oh, you're terrible!
They probably had hiccups anyway.
your horible!
Steve Irwin died, but I don't think the crocodiles are happy about that.
Nothing its quite sad
Crocodile tears perhaps.
Larry you may not think what he did was cool, but I don't she you getting off you a** and doing something to teach the world about the importance of having creatures like the alligator or rattlesnake around. Maybe if you were a better person you'd understand why people a upset. Maybe the crocodiles are laughing because with idiots like you next in line to take care of the world they know the world is going to hell in a hand basket and their skins are weaved to make the basket. IDIOT!
It is very sad that you find it funny to be so dissrespectful at a time like this. Not only did Steve Irwin love all animals and do his very best to educate all of us about those animals (most of which any normal everyday person wouldn't see in out life time) He has left behind a wife and two small children! I find you to be a horrible person for you actions. It doesn't matter to me whether it was someone famous or not, a human, a person, a friend, a father, a husband, a son, a brother, a uncle no matter who he was does not deserve yours or anyone else's disrespect.
sick-o
I saw a dinosaur?
I think I saw a T-Rex the other day in my backyard.anyone know if they're friendly or not?
Answers:
The t-Rex knew you had a good heart. So it came to your house knowing you would give it a good home. Take her in and love her and don't let any news cast or scientist find her, or they will poke and prod and her. This will also be great stories to tell your grandchildren for generations to come.." The time Gramma had a T-Rex." Do the right thing. Love it!
nope there really mean lol
Walk up and pet it to find out.
I don't think they would be friendly, I think they would eat you.
They are very friendly, just go on up to it and give it a great big kiss, thay love that!
I would put by dog and cats inside the house,they like to eat small animals.if they are not already eaten. I would also carry a shotgun when leaving the house and fire a couple warning shots to scare it away.Good luck with your monster :)
Seeing as it hasn't eaten you yet..my guess is it wants to be your friend LOL
I think you're * retarded! :D
Yeah.don't let their intimidating looks fool you. They are man's best friend next to dogs.
They are friendly, you can even put your hand in their mouth.No, no, no, just kidding. 8)
lucky you! i only get boring old sparrows and the occasional squirel. oooh you jammy sod!
Yes.
I suggest you have a wee roll in slightly rancid ground beef, and run right out there.
Answers:
The t-Rex knew you had a good heart. So it came to your house knowing you would give it a good home. Take her in and love her and don't let any news cast or scientist find her, or they will poke and prod and her. This will also be great stories to tell your grandchildren for generations to come.." The time Gramma had a T-Rex." Do the right thing. Love it!
nope there really mean lol
Walk up and pet it to find out.
I don't think they would be friendly, I think they would eat you.
They are very friendly, just go on up to it and give it a great big kiss, thay love that!
I would put by dog and cats inside the house,they like to eat small animals.if they are not already eaten. I would also carry a shotgun when leaving the house and fire a couple warning shots to scare it away.Good luck with your monster :)
Seeing as it hasn't eaten you yet..my guess is it wants to be your friend LOL
I think you're * retarded! :D
Yeah.don't let their intimidating looks fool you. They are man's best friend next to dogs.
They are friendly, you can even put your hand in their mouth.No, no, no, just kidding. 8)
lucky you! i only get boring old sparrows and the occasional squirel. oooh you jammy sod!
Yes.
I suggest you have a wee roll in slightly rancid ground beef, and run right out there.
I rescued two sulcata tortoises, what can I feed them during the winter when fresh grass isn't available?
I fed them bermuda hay, timothy, orchard grasses and frozen veggies last year.I dried clean fresh grass, clover and weeds when available to feed that during the winter months.. What else can I feed them to prevent their shell from pyramidding. They also get calcium from dandelions but I can't find too many of them around my property though I have ten acres. I would prefer to not feed them store bought or commercial foods. Anyone have any ideas?
Answers:
I know nothing about turtles, but I wonder if you could grow a container of grass in-doors? I grow fresh herbs for cooking, so I thought maybe grass would grow in the window and you could just cut off what you need?
you may want to go to a local pet store, most will have live foods(such as worms) to feed to your tortoises. Maybe you could freeze some fresh grass this year before the season ends and feed them that trough out the winter. Also fresh and frozen veggies seem to really do the trick as they have much more nutrition than grass does. Good luck. I hope this helped.
they should eat lettuce and tomatoes and veggies
You could build a greenhouse, or use indoor techniques to grow what they need in the winter, it would be a heavy investment to get the equipment but if it is something you are concerned with it may not be a bad idea.I know they live a long time if I'm not mistaken.so it may be worth the money
I would feed them hay (timothy/alfalfa mix) you can get it at a store or farmer. Otherwise greens like romaine, collards, mustards, and fresh veggies/fruits. Pyramidding is from lack of humidity when they are babies. I have a red foot and when I brought her humidity up you can tell it helps with that problem. I did some research, if I can find the website I will post it.
Answers:
I know nothing about turtles, but I wonder if you could grow a container of grass in-doors? I grow fresh herbs for cooking, so I thought maybe grass would grow in the window and you could just cut off what you need?
you may want to go to a local pet store, most will have live foods(such as worms) to feed to your tortoises. Maybe you could freeze some fresh grass this year before the season ends and feed them that trough out the winter. Also fresh and frozen veggies seem to really do the trick as they have much more nutrition than grass does. Good luck. I hope this helped.
they should eat lettuce and tomatoes and veggies
You could build a greenhouse, or use indoor techniques to grow what they need in the winter, it would be a heavy investment to get the equipment but if it is something you are concerned with it may not be a bad idea.I know they live a long time if I'm not mistaken.so it may be worth the money
I would feed them hay (timothy/alfalfa mix) you can get it at a store or farmer. Otherwise greens like romaine, collards, mustards, and fresh veggies/fruits. Pyramidding is from lack of humidity when they are babies. I have a red foot and when I brought her humidity up you can tell it helps with that problem. I did some research, if I can find the website I will post it.
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